>> i've been to mumbai, kolkata, sundarbans, rajasthan, kerala... this is a part of india that's different than any other part. it's fascinating and beautiful. >> oh, yeah. >> sweet. ♪ >> whoa, it's moving. ♪ >> end of the road. i've always wanted to get as far away as possible from the place that i was born. far both geographically and spiritually. to leave it behind. ♪ tangier, it's morocco. but from 1923 through 1956, it was loosely governed by the major powers, an international zone. for years it seemed everything was permitted. nothing was forbidden. at the northern tip of africa, a short ferry hop from spain, tangier was a magnet for writers, remittance men, spies, and artists. if you were a bad boy of your time, you liked drugs, the kind of sex that was frowned upon at home and an affordable lifestyle set against an exotic background, tangier was for you. matisse, genet, william burroughs. many have come this way, staying a while or hanging around. but no one stayed longer or became more associated with tangier than the novelist and composer paul bowles. in works like "the sheltering sky" he created a romantic vision of tangier that persists even today, a dream that's become almost inseparable in the minds of many from reality. i'm here to find that dream city. the place burroughs referred to as "interzone." ♪ tangier, like i said, was a city of ex-pats -- people with pasts, people who simply didn't like where they were and craved somewhere and something else. the grand soco is the gateway to the medina where you could find the kasbah, which means fortress by the way. the port of tangier is to the east, and right in the middle of it all, the petit socco, what uncle bill burroughs called the last stop, the meeting place, the switchboard of tangier. reasons for settling in tangier diverge, but everyone sooner or later since the beginning of memory comes to cafe tingis. jonathan dawson came to this city over 20 years ago as a journalist, and he never left. he lives a life not too distant from burroughs' fantasy. cake and tea at 4:00 every day served by his man servant. he may not have a gazelle, but a pet rooster will do. and every day he makes the rounds of the cafes, seeing all the old faces, ending up sooner or later here. >> this is the petit socco? >> this is the petit socco. yes. it existed in venetian times, existed in roman times, in the portuguese times and the english were here for 22 years and then the international city until 1956, now it's completely moroccan. this is a very historic square, very historic. >> as a writer, i've noticed everybody who comes here to do an article does the same article. >> it is so damn boring. they all do paul bowles and the beat generation and there are lots of other stories in morocco apart from that, but everyone likes the beats. bill burroughs, tennessee williams, they were all here, but that's a small part of the moroccan history. that's a 15-year page. there was a life before that and a life after that. you're here. >> yeah. it was inevitable. let's pretend those guys never came. what is this place? >> the reality is, you can read a paul bowles story and live it. people do come here and try to live it, but they don't stay very long. they smoke a little dope, go to a cheap hotel and go home with bedbugs. >> and a great story. >> and a great story. >> the attitude here is different than other parts of morocco. i think they have a higher tolerance of tradition of bad or outrageous behavior. >> they have a high tolerance of mad people, you know? but moroccans essentially are very tolerant people. they quite like madness as well. they kind of celebrate that a bit. you know? >> how moroccan is tangier? >> it's a moroccan city with a european outlook. you can stand up on the boulevard and see spain and gibraltar and see all sorts of people passing through, but it is a moroccan city. i'm 62 years old. i didn't know international days which finished in 1956, but at that time, i think europeans may have outnumbered moroccans in the center of this city. it's not the case now. there's very few europeans actually living here full time. >> the notion of living a life apart, of being somewhere else, there are those who like that feeling. i like that feeling. then there are those who may live apart, may live somewhere else, but they're not entirely comfortable. it's the difference annoys them or is a burden. >> it did, and it frustrates them. some people have to leave home to find their home. i'm one of those people. whereas i didn't feel at home in the country i was born in at all, but here i feel okay. i feel very, very happy here. >> there is indeed something special about this place. burroughs described the native quarter of tangier as a maze of sunless twisting streets filled with blind alleys. its smell was particularly notable to him, including a mix of hashish, seared meat, and sewage. tangier, before anything else, is essentially a port city, with all the things that traditionally come with port cities. it's situated at the choke point between the atlantic ocean and the mediterranean sea. the moroccan coast is a rich fishing ground, and a lot of people make their living from the sea. onshore they use a method called senhall fishing, where weighted nets basically drag fish across the bottom of the sea. some of that fish, the good stuff anyway, ends up here. the saveur de poisson, or restaurant populare or popeye's. the place has a lot of names, but locals and ex-pats alike who have been coming here for years say it has some of the best tagine in town. mohamed belhadj, the owner and head chef, is from the nearby rif mountains, and he sources a lot of his stuff, his produce and his greens, from there, and he's real proud of them. the back room of the place is dedicated to sorting and drying various herbs which he blends into a secret mix that he claims has all sorts of healthful and boner-inspiring benefits. if every dish i have been told over the years would make me strong worked, i would have a permanent pup tent going on down there, so i take all that with a grain of salt. hi. >> hello. >> belhadj's son hassan delivers the food. it all starts with fresh olives, they're in season now. and roasted walnuts. some warm, very good bread. squishy. and you get this stuff. everybody gets it. a pulpy puree of figs, raisins, strawberries and full of mohammed's potent herbs and spices, of course. >> all night, 24 clock. >> yeah, yeah, i get it. it's supposed to make me more manly. you know what? i'm eating. let's not talk about that, okay, sunshine? what is a tagine, anyway? it's a traditional moroccan stew that can include vegetables, meat, or fish. tonight, baby shark, calamari and monkfish with fresh mountain spinach slowly cooked over charcoal in a classic clay pot that gives it its name. the tagine's domed top is supposed to force the condensation back in to the dish and keep it moist and tender. that's delicious. i think it's the greens and the aromatics and the herbs, i have no idea what they are. i've never had anything like it. tangier version of farm to table. >> hi. >> wow. what's that? thank you. and a whole turbot, brushed with olive oil, salt, and pepper and some coriander, then grilled perfectly over the coals. cuddled up next to the fish, tiny shark kabobs. cute. wow, spectacular. good value. all of this for 20 bucks? i think we did a pretty good job on mr. fish. that will teach you. [ speaking foreign language ] >> he's freaking me out. it's like that guy with, you know, you're tripping and does this to you? for dessert, strawberries, pine nuts and honey. like the whole meal, it's eccentric and delicious. thank you. >> you're welcome. >> i haven't had so much fruits and nuts since altamont. i told mick, i said, mick, this is a bad crowd. get back in the chopper. but he's like, man, we can't disappoint the fans. ah, memories. hi, i'm jill and i've lost 56 pounds on golo. hi, i'm barry and i've lost 42 pounds. jill and i are a team. if she tells me to do something, i usually jump on board. golo was doable, it's realistic, and it's something we can do the rest of our lives. let innovation refunds help with your erc tax refund so you can improve your business however you see fit. rosie used part of her refund to build an outdoor patio. clink! dr. marshall used part of his refund to give his practice a facelift. emily used part of her refund to buy... i run a wax museum. let innovation refunds help you get started on your erc tax refund. stop waiting. go to innovationrefunds.com you really got the brows. at the alzheimer's association walk to end alzheimer's, this is why we walk. ♪ they're why we walk. ♪ we walk in the alzheimer's association walk to end alzheimer's because we're getting closer to beating this disease. join us. with 30 grams of protein. those who tried me felt more energy in just two weeks! uuuhhhh... here, i'll take that! woohoo! ensure max protein, 30 grams of protein, 1 gram of sugar. enter the $10,000 powered by protein max challenge. ♪ ♪ (fan #1) there ya go! that's what i'm talkin' about! 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(vo) football season is here. get nfl sunday ticket from youtubetv on us. a $449 value. plus, get a free samsung galaxy z flip5. only on verizon. your paint is really bad. what? i said, “best coffee i've ever had.” (slurps) should've used behr. sorry, sign where? no, i said, “should've used behr." today let's paint. right now, get america's most trusted paint brand at a new low price. behr. only at the home depot. lowe's knows that fall's shorter days call for bigger deals. get the most out of your projects by getting the most out of our fall savings now. shop labor day deals under $90 now, in store or online. in tangier, i lived in one room in the native quarter. i had not taken a bath in a year nor changed my clothes or removed them except to stick a needle every hour in the fibrous gray wooden flesh of terminal addiction. i never cleaned or dusted the room. empty ampule boxes and garbage piled up to the ceiling. light and water long since turned off for nonpayment. i did absolutely nothing. i could look at the end of my shoe for eight hours. i was only roused to action when the hourglass of junk ran out." the words of william seward burroughs, one of my heroes. he came to tangier in 1953, shortly after shooting his wife to death in a drunken accident in mexico city. he was a heroin addict, a homosexual, and an inspiration to those protohipsters who became known as the beats. burroughs, however, was not a hipster. there was nothing beatnik about him. he was a somewhat stuffy, well-dressed st. louis son of a good family gone wrong. he was also to my mind the greatest writer of the whole damn bunch. on the road, you can have it. his classic "naked lunch" was written here. a nonlinear, dark, dry humored searingly critical and satirical and profane masterpiece. burroughs was apparently high for much of the process on heroin or locally available prescription opiate called eukodal. and of course, the daily staple of many of these parts. hashish, kief and majoun. hashish is the concentrated thc-rich resin of the cannabis plant, as well as varying amounts of its flowers and leaves that have been separated from the buds and compressed into sheet or brick-like form. kief a more local, and indigenous product, is the part of the plant containing only the strongest concentration of psychoactive ingredients. majoun is a confection made from kief, fruits, nuts, chocolate and honey. i was, of course, fascinated by this product since reading about it and inquired of some local contacts who shall necessarily go unnamed. how was it made? this is what i wanted to know. they were kind enough to demonstrate. kief is first chopped into fine granules and slowly added to melted butter and chocolate over a low heat. you toast it and release the psychotropic goodies within. while the binder element is slow cooking in the pan, a combination of spices are blended with cashews, almonds, walnuts, and dried fruit. this will be the framework to suspend the thc-laden goodness in the next step. the cannabis-laced butter chocolate is added along with plenty of honey to bind together all the ingredients. then mix. last, you roll the entirety of the mixture into a ball and either refrigerate or dig right in. of course, network standards and practices prohibit me from even tasting this delicious and reportedly mind-altering treat. i'm guessing, anyway. so until i see christiane and wolf doing bong rips in "the situation room," i will, of course, abide by these rules because that's the kind of guy i am. there's one particular cafe in the heart of the kasbah that's drawn in foreign dignitaries, rock stars, aristocrats and artists since it opened its doors in 1943. cafe baba. sweet mint tea in a thick slow-moving haze of smoke. it smells like my dorm room, 1972. good evening, hello. hi, i'm george. this is george bajalia and zeneb benjaloum, thank you for having me. welcome to cafe baba. and i should say right now that i have no direct knowledge of either george or zaneb smoking any illegal substances nor do i have any recollection at this time of me doing anything untoward in their presence... because that would be, like, wrong, dude. some tea? george is here on a fulbright scholarship and zaneb is an artist from rabat. others in the room, however, well, don't give me that innocent look, you young punks. i know somebody in here is smoking reefer. how stoned are people here? >> we can ask, just ask. >> you're not getting totally ripped here? >> no. it's a functional part of daily life. for a long time, the rest of the country and the government didn't really like tangier a whole lot. it was seedy. there were foreigners who came here and -- he likes? >> it makes money. >> he sees it as a future economic super power as i understand it. he's talk condos, boutique hotels. is that is good or bad? >> for moroccans, it's work, but of course ex-pats want to keep tangier like they know it before. >> i mean, this cafe is very similar to the way it was, but there's a tv right there. >> flat screen. >> that's why people come here. they come to watch soccer games. >> you can well imagine the american guy who's lived in tangier for 30 years. he comes in, there's a flat screen tv on the wall. he's like -- what? you've ruined the authenticity and the integrity, but the moroccan guy at the next table is, like, wait a minute, asshole, you have a flat screen tv at home. i want one, too. what is wrong with that? >> there are people here who >probably have never heard of paul bowles. if you follow that, there's no progression, no progress, there's no change. >> the thing about cafe baba, just sitting here, taking in the atmosphere, you begin to appreciate the place. >> there's something different happening here. >> contact high, whoa, i'm hungry. wait until the spanish tortilla dude across the street opens for business. this is abdileh. he specializes in making one thing, and he make's it well. an omelet. well, it's like a spanish tortilla. but like stonier. the potatoes are boiled, diced, then mixed with beaten eggs and cooked in a cast iron skillet. oh, yeah. the eggs. the egg man. i am me and we are you and where is my omelet, dude, because i am hungry. as-salamu alaykum. >> one, two, three? >> abdileh is waiting for you right when you come stumbling out of cafe baba. coincidence or not? you be the judge. >> ketchup and mayonnaise. everything. >> ketchup and mayonnaise? sure. why not? condiment options i will be hard pressed to turn down at this precise moment anyway. >> a lot of mayonnaise. >> hmm. dude, that's awesome. i'll have 12 more. ♪ if you don't stain your deck, it's like the previous owner is still hanging around. so today let's stain, with behr, the #1 rated stain. and make your deck, yours. behr. exclusively at the home depot. 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[ speaking foreign language ] >> a little cheese, a little flat bread, the perfect moroccan breakfast to go. we're headed into the jebala foothills of the rif mountain range about 85 kilometers south of tangier to a place called jajouka. the village is home to the people of the ahl serif tribe, which loosely translated means the saintly people. jajouka is also home to one of morocco's better-known musicians, bachir attar. jazz and rock and roll musicians have traveled from all over the world to jajouka to meet this guy. bachir is part of a lineage of master musicians all from this small mountain village. ♪ >> famously dubbed as a 4,000-year-old rock band by william burroughs, bachir, his son, and these musicians maintain one of the oldest still living musical traditions on earth. ♪ we're invited for dinner. it's family style, of course, beginning with briouat, like a kefta pocket, hand formed envelopes of dough filled with seasoned beef baked until golden and then crisped in oil. i'm good for now -- well, one more. uh-oh, here we go. >> the main event, >> welcome, tony. >> thank you. just gorgeous. first, chopped onions, garlic, parsley and turmeric are blended with olive oil. the bird is generously coated and stuffed. then after simmering in a touch of olive oil and water, the chicken is fried until crispy, served with roasted almonds and olives, paprika, and ginger. nice. >> he smells the food. >> like anywhere else in the arab world, eating with your hands, always the right one, is proper dining etiquette. >> this is special spinach. >> it's wild spinach. it grows in the mountains? >> yeah. >> bakoula is chopped mountain spinach garlic, cilantro, hot and black peppers finished with lemon and olive oil. that's delicious. >> i heard you are the greatest taste for food in the world, man. >> i love good food. this is good. >> yeah. >> after dinner some fruit, some mint tea, and let the music begin. for centuries, the master musicians of jajouka have been the musical choice of the royal families of morocco, excused by the country's rulers from manual labor to devote themselves to musical training. ♪ ♪ their powerful style of sufi transmusic has inspired many music seekers, including most notably perhaps paul bowles, who wrote about them and recorded them, and spread the word. brian jones was here and recorded "the pipes of pan at jajouka" with these musicians. the word spread and the master musicians have ended up being featured on albums by maceo parker, ornette coleman and the rolling stones. for years, if you were a rock god, you had to come here, dig the crazy percussion, strings, and pipes that took you to another place. it's intricate, hypnotic, beautiful. if you're in the right frame of mind, mesmerizing. from big cities, to small towns, and on main streets across the us, you'll find pnc bank. helping businesses both large and small, communities and the people who live and work there grow and thrive. we're proud to call these places home too. they're where we put down roots, and where together, we work to help move everyone's financial goals forward. pnc bank. lowe's knows that fall's shorter days... call for bigger deals. get the most out of your fall projects... by getting the most out of our deals now. and with lowe's pay, it's never been easier to shop at lowe's. labor day savings are here. in-store and online. introducing new buttermilk biscuits in sweet and savory flavors. so, everyone can have their perfect biscuit. ♪ or add one on the side. get a breakfast biscuit sandwich with a side for just seven dollars for a limited time. your paint is really bad. what? i said, “best coffee i've ever had.” (slurps) should've used behr. sorry, sign where? no, i said, “should've used behr." today let's paint. right now, get america's most trusted paint brand at a new low price. behr. only at the home depot. here's why you should switch fo to duckduckgo on all your devie duckduckgo comes with a built n engine like google, but it's pi and doesn't spy on your searchs and duckduckgo lets you browse like chrome, but it blocks cooi and creepy ads that follow youa from google and other companie. and there's no catch, it's fre. we make money from ads, but they don't follow you aroud join the millions of people taking back their privacy by downloading duckduckgo on all your devices today. our customers don't do what they do for likes or followers. their path isn't for the casually curious. and that's what makes it matter the most when they find it. the exact thing that can change the world. some say it's what they were born to do... it's what they live to do... trinet serves small and medium sized businesses... so they can do more of what matters. benefits. payroll. compliance. trinet. people matter. anyone who comes to tangier inevitably ends up lost in the old part of the city. the medina is just what you want it to be. the ancient world residing just next to and around the new one. you can walk around inside the movie in your head, play the bogey character you never were, all against an all too willing, all too genuine backdrop. ordinarily just about the last thing in the world i would be interested in doing is antiquing, but buried in the network of twisting narrow streets of the old city is boutique majid owned and operated, and personally curated by this man. abedelmajid rais el fenni. hello. how are you? and he's one interesting guy. thank you. >> come in. >> when he was a little kid back in the '60s, majid left his hometown of fez and came here where he would earn a few dirham a night emptying ashtrays at wild and extravagant parties being thrown here by wealthy ex-pats. he saw what these people would buy for themselves and how they would decorate their homes, and he started to look around for himself, scoring, then reselling art and antiques.wow. it became something of an obsession. now his artifacts from morocco and all across northern africa are bought by collectors all from over the world. carpets, antiques, wood carvings, jewelry and old doors. wow, these are incredibly beautiful. tell me about that. >> amber, coral, shells. these used to be currency. these shells. >> how old is this? >> this is early '20s. the amber is millions of years old. >> how much are you selling it for? >> by weight. quite heavy piece this one, 429 grams. so it comes like 42,000 dirhams. >> so that's how much in dollars? >> almost $5,000. >> about $5,000. >> almost. >> should we look at another floor? >> oh, yes, follow me. there's a nice collection of things from the sahara. >> so you travel a lot? >> not like you. >> oh, this is for pounding manioc? >> yes, this is from the gond tribe. from mali. >> how much will this sell for do you think? >> around $300. >> really? for this? that's very reasonable. i'll be buying that. that's going to be an old friend. >> also memory. >> also memory of tangier as well. >> majid suggests lunch at andalus, a locals only place nearby. as a moroccan, so many westerners who come to tangiers, come with a romantic notion of a tangier they read about in books. do people have a realistic expectation? are they looking for morocco or are they looking for this phantasm? >> it is a phantasm. it is. when you get here, you know morocco, you feel that you are in morocco but you are not. there's a lot of mediterranean attached to this town. also the history, people hear story about tangier that it was -- when i first came in the '60s, everybody said that you came late. tangiers was... >> right. >> now i'm saying the same thing as the young now. they come and they saw wow, i say -- >> what was better about those days? >> well, for me at that time i was young, and it was the boom of hippies, and it was a destination. you know, cafe baba, meet bob dylan, and the parties was going on. i miss these kind of parties. people fly from everywhere to the party, and they make the whole town move. blue and white party, white and gold party, hat party, you know, it's amazing. you see people coming in with amazing hats, like a cage with a bird, extravagant hats, you know. they put so much energy and time into the parties, you know? look at -- >> now, that looks good. tomatoes brushed with local olive oil, garlic and coriander. liver kabobs, beef liver to be exact, grilled over charcoal. that looks very nice. for fish, a bit of swordfish and some orange roughy. >> that is just beautiful. >> how do you like the tomato? >> the swordfish is amazing. so how else have things changed? >> you saw how many tourists there was today? >> they were in a hurry. >> if they come to the shop, even try to avoid your eye contact. they afraid if you get my eye contact, i'm going to rip you off or -- >> or make you buy something that they don't want? >> i don't know. i don't know. >> do they buy? >> they don't even say hello. >> they don't buy? >> of course. we call them penguin. they have short hands that don't get into the pockets. i'm just kidding. lowe's knows that fall's shorter days call for bigger deals. get the most out of your projects by getting the most out of our fall savings now. shop labor day deals under $90 now, in store or online. julian's about to learn that free food is a personal eating trigger. no, it isn't. 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[ speaking foreign language ] >> i always feel welcomed here. i never consider that this is mine. it's theirs and they've allowed me to live here in a very nice way. i feel recognition. they know who i am. they know who i am. >> there is a side by side aspect to life here that's very unusual. >> very unusual here. it's mostly you can do whatever you want if you do it with good manners. >> it is a station of the cross for, you know, bad boys of culture. i mean, verlaine, rambeau. iggy pop. the stones. burroughs and gysin. burroughs came here to be a writer. >> he was a junkie before he was a writer. >> as so many of us were. >> a place to think of yourself as a writer you would come here and somehow working within a romantic tradition. >> yes. >> burroughs said right up front, to me, a writer, when i was a little boy, a writer was a guy who lounged around in a smoking jacket or a caftan and smoking a hash pipe or an opium pipe, in a beautifully anointed house littered with sleeping boys. >> yes. >> or girls. >> to what extent did that world exist and to what extent was that world created by the people that showed up with that expectation? >> since bill departed, rip, dear, wonderful, marvelous man, he's gone, it's tame now. >> it is tame. >> well, he was -- >> gentile now. >> he was the very opposite of gentile. he was an outlaw of every society. >> my husband knew him very well and he was saying that i cured him of being a drug addict. i said how? he said, i turned him into an alcoholic. >> who smokes hashish at this table? please raise your hand. >> is the camera on? >> put your hand up, bianca. when migraine strikes, you're faced with a choice. ride it out with the tradeoffs of treating? or push through the pain and symptoms? with ubrelvy, there's another option. one dose works fast to eliminate migraine pain. treat it anytime, anywhere without worrying where you are or if it's too late. do not take with strong cyp3a4 inhibitors. allergic reactions to ubrelvy can happen. most common side effects were nausea and sleepiness. migraine pain relief starts with u. ask about ubrelvy. learn how abbvie could help you save. your paint is really bad. what? i said, “best coffee i've ever had.” (slurps) should've used behr. sorry, sign where? no, i said, “should've used behr." today let's paint. right now, get america's most trusted paint brand at a new low price. behr. only at the home depot. this delectable ramen noodle recipe will put an end to your drive-through dinner rituals. throw that powder in that tasty combo of delightful carrots, and the rich touch of bok choy. knorr taste combos. it's not fast food, but it's soooo good. ♪ ♪ introducing new buttermilk biscuits in sweet and savory flavors. so, everyone can have their perfect biscuit. ♪ or add one on the side. get a breakfast biscuit sandwich with a side for just seven dollars for a limited time. 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