♪ >> anthony: i need a french coach. ♪ i took a walk through this beautiful world ♪ ♪ felt the cool rain on my shoulder ♪ ♪ found something good in this beautiful world ♪ ♪ i felt the rain getting colder ♪ ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, la, ♪ ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, la, ♪ ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, la, ♪ ♪ sha, la, la, la, la ♪ ♪ >> anthony: if you've been to france, chances are you haven't been here. france's second largest city, the oldest city in france. it sits right by the mediterranean. the food is famously good. yet, it's a victim of bad reputation, bad history. marseille. as it turns out, exactly the kind of place i like. but, this is a buddy picture, isn't it? eric ripert is the chef of the three-star la bernardin in new york, a chevalier of france. i think that means he's some kind of knight or something, and my friend. this causes him some problems. he, i like to remind him, has a reputation to protect. i do not. welcome to marseille. >> eric: yeah. >> anthony: you've never been here. >> eric: never. >> anthony: how is this even possible? you grew up how far from here? >> eric: like, uh, 50 miles. a hundred miles. >> anthony: a hun -- you grew up a hundred miles from here? what prevented you from coming to this clearly beautiful city? because it's clearly beautiful. >> eric: it's a fantastic city. i mean, it's beautiful. i agree with you, but it has a reputation of being a dangerous city. >> anthony: you live in new york. [ laughter ] ♪ >> anthony: i should point out that every single frenchman who i've said, you know, "i'm shooting in france." and they say, "oh really? where?" and i say, "marseille," their face drops immediately like, "oh." >> eric: why -- why is that? because they think it's ugly? >> anthony: do you know what they say? they say, "zis is not france." [ laughs ] >> eric: with a "z" like that? >> anthony: "zis is not france." ♪ >> eric: merci beaucoup. >> anthony: well, i'm looking forward to the week. >> eric: yeah. >> anthony: this is a low-impact show. >> eric: what is a low-impact show? >> anthony: it means i'm not, you know, paddling up river. it means i get a flush toilet, eating well constantly. >> eric: you -- you like luxury. >> anthony: i do. look, i do. i like a fluffy hotel towel. i like a bidet. look, i like warm jets of water squirting up my ass. i mean, who doesn't? ♪ i could retire here. >> eric: i could retire here too. >> anthony: you see, that's, sort of, the measure of a place for me is like if you start thinking thoughts like that, like, "that must be nice. i could live there." just me and my watercolors, you know, just puttering. when you retire are you going to putter? do you know what putter means? >> eric: what is? no. >> anthony: dicking around. basically, you wake up and you maybe you paint a little. >> eric: i can't paint. >> anthony: you know, well, okay. do you -- knitting? little -- make, make a sweater. >> eric: what do you think i am like? who am i here? ♪ i will try to go fishing. i've, you know, i've never catch anything in my life. >> anthony: do you actually fish? do you know how to fish? do you ever fish? >> eric: i don't know how to fish. >> anthony: i'll show you how. all you need is a car battery and a couple of cables. trust me, you'll get all the fish you want. they come right up. >> eric: yeah, that's, uh, you end up in jail. you end up in jail, dude. >> anthony: there's other ways. how do you say "dynamite" in french? >> eric: dynamite. >> anthony: dynamite. see, i do speak french? ♪ >> anthony: you can tell. you know it's coming, right? you can sense it. oh no, another fishing scene. this is our vessel here, on the right. >> eric: oui, eric. >> anthony: bonjour, monsieur. eric fromion is one of only a handful of old-style fishermen who work the sea the old-fashioned way. >> eric: do you see yourself fishing? >> anthony: no. >> eric: it's stressful to me. >> anthony: right. i always think i'm going to catch, like, my testicles or my ear with a hook. you know? i have a fear of fishhooks. yeah, he's catching denti? >> eric: yeah, he said that it's the best fish of the mediterranean. i have no idea what he's talking about. >> anthony: well, hopefully we'll see. >> eric: well hopefully we'll taste it. well, at least, he's supposed to deliver to le petit nice. >> anthony: oh, that's right. eric works exclusively for this man, gérald passédat, the extremely demanding chef-owner of le petit nice -- marseille's only three michelin star restaurant. >> gerald: i'm waiting for my fisherman, actually. won't be long. it depends what the mediterranean sea will offer to us. >> eric: so it's a long liner, tony. >> anthony: and how long is the line? >> eric: well, he says he has about, today, 300 hooks. >> anthony: so he basically lays it out at night? comes back, pulls it in. >> eric f: yeah. and pick it up. yeah. >> eric: now, we have to pull everything back. how many people fish like you in marseille? >> eric f: with the long line? >> eric: yes, in this type of work. [ eric f: speaking french ] >> eric: wow. in marseille it's only five guys. five fishermen who are working like him. >> anthony: wow. >> eric: you know he has 300 hooks. ♪ >> gerald: i think he's arriving. he's arriving. ♪ >> anthony: this must be the twelfth fishing scene. no, i must have done 20 fishing scenes in my life and i think, i think i had one good day out of all of them. other than that it's been one humiliating goat rodeo after another. ordinarily, our typical fishing scene actually would be, it would be rougher than this. >> eric: rougher. >> anthony: so we would be pitching back and forth and i'd be hanging on to my, the contents of my stomach only by realizing that they're feeling even sicker because they have to look through the viewfinder so they're like -- so it's basically, you're playing this sort of race against time kind of a game and it's like, "who is going to puke first?" >> eric: yeah. >> anthony: it's always the camera dudes though. >> eric: is it? >> anthony: no. generally it's a producer. ♪ [ eric f. speaking french ] >> eric: he said, "bad days, i've had some bad days, but this one --" >> anthony: this is the worst ever. >> eric: this is the worst. >> anthony: well, there it is. another extraordinarily successful fishing scene in the can. time to reap the rewards awaiting us back on dry land. you'll tell me if there's, like, any oiled-up amazons behind me. >> eric: behind you? >> anthony: right, frolicking naked. >> eric: yeah, right now they're kind of like mature amazons, but it will happen. >> anthony: ah, here's the chef. >> eric: anthony bourdain. gerald. >> gerald: nice to meet you. >> anthony: nice to meet you. an honor, sir. >> gerald: would you mind to have the bouillabaisse? it's a good idea? or -- >> eric: we don't mind. we want it. >> anthony: i think it's a very good -- >> gerald: will you change your mind? >> anthony: no, no, no. it's a very good idea. there is reinvented, deconstructed, and then, usually, there's the thing itself. passedat's take on bouillabaisse, without a doubt marseille's most famous dish, is spread out over four courses. first, shellfish carpaccio of raw mussels and clams. >> anthony: man. mm. >> eric: this is super, huh? and they're raw, of course. they slice the mussels raw. that's crazy. wow. >> gerald: i decided to make this bouillabaisse. i had the inspiration when i was a child on those rocks, you know? when i was with my knife opening the mussels, eating the muscles. in my cuisine, there is no cream or butter. it's not traditional at all. it's just based on the fish. this is my way of, um, thinking -- my cuisine here, for myself. >> anthony: slipper lobster, weaver, angler, and red gurnard. lightly seared, then a touch in the oven. oh, whoa. >> eric: oh. >> anthony: this is just incredibly beautiful. >> eric: it's so delicate and, at the same time, flavorful and powerful. >> anthony: this is insanely good. a broth so intense it requires over ten kilos of rock crabs and various bony tasty little fishes to make just one kilo of brown, gloriously brown, magical liquid. dorade and denti. steamed over seaweed water. saffron potatoes and then, finally, comes that magical brown broth. >> eric: oh! >> anthony: wow. >> eric: ah, dorade. >> gerald: it's a broth. [ eric speaking french ] >> anthony: oh man. >> eric: this is unbelievable, huh? you taste the -- >> gerald: the entire fish you're eating, you know? >> anthony: and just when my brain threatens to short circuit with pleasure, descending as if from heaven itself -- cheese. oh god, the cheese. you know, i've got to tell you. i don't care how many naked breasts are on that beach right now because that is much more exciting. look at it. look at it, it's beautiful. >> anthony: yes. oh look at that. oh man. ♪ oh i love cheese like this. that is just incredible. merci. oh yes. ♪ >> eric: that is exceptional. >> anthony: life is good. >> eric: life is good. >> gerald: in marseille. >> anthony: it is very good in marseille. as someone who resembles someone else, i appreciate that liberty mutual knows everyone's unique. that's why they customize your car insurance, so you only pay for what you need. 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>> cedric: for me, it's more interesting because you write about the place you live in. i walk in the street, i have an idea, etcetera. i couldn't write about past things, like james ellroy does, because i have to know the real -- the real part of the city, the people. >> anthony: here, it's a really interesting stew of characters. >> cedric: in marseille, there is a very poor area and a very rich area. the difference between those two areas is the worst in france, so that makes an interesting city because when we write a crime novel, we write about those differences between the poor people, the rich people, et cetera, so that's interesting. >> anthony: femina's is an algerian restaurant with some of the better couscous in town, and since it's a very filling dish and i've only got one crack at it, i go for the royale, what else? vegetables, chickpeas, merguez sausage, chicken, hunks of lamb, and meatballs. what people say is that everybody sees themselves as marseillais first and french second regardless of your background. is that true? >> cedric: because in marseille, we love the city. it's our city, and in the same time we hate a lot of aspects. we have both love and hate. it's part of a complex, i think. marseille has always made the bad choices in politics. when france lost its colonies, it was an economic disaster for marseille. i'm thinking about one of your cities in the states, detroit. it was a huge city. it was very important. >> anthony: yep. and beautiful. >> cedric: and what happened. >> anthony: yeah. we abandoned detroit. we abandoned it. it became too black for america to love. >> cedric: maybe france is abandoning marseille. sometimes people say, "in marseille people, they are racist." i would say in marseille people, they are connected with other people. >> anthony: let's hope marseille, people figure that out because i think it's amazing here. if you ask real marseillais these days, "what's the iconic dish? the one thing you most closely associate with home?" the answer might surprise you. pizza. marseille, it turns out, is the pizza truck capital of france. >> anthony: so this could be a whole new beginning for you, eric. >> eric: yes. >> anthony: i always said you should have a truck. >> eric: yeah, i'll do it with you. >> anthony: do you have pizza experience? >> eric: never did a pizza in my life. >> anthony: does, uh, he know this? >> eric: no, he doesn't know. i'm going to tell him. okay, let's go. >> anthony: our employer for this episode of the real world geriatric edition is jean denis martinez. his yellow truck, a rolling pizza oven, is well-known in the neighborhood. meaning he's busy. >> eric: he's taking orders too. >> anthony: we're not going to be good at this. this is going to be like "i love lucy." >> eric: more like laurel and hardy. >> anthony: this is like a nightmare. i actually have this nightmare where, like, there's orders coming in and i don't understand what they are because it's in another language, and i don't know where anything is, and i'm falling behind. this is literally my nightmare. >> jean: okay. >> anthony: oh, okay. okay, get in there man. get, get, come on. hey, lucy, come on man. >> eric: shut up. >> anthony: put on the sauce. put on the sauce. spread it out, there. come on. >> eric: don't take my job. >> jean: no, no, no. >> eric: you don't push. >> anthony: you don't. >> eric: you're not supposed to. trois cuillères. three spoons. you're sloppy, man. you're going nowhere, man. what the -- is that? >> anthony: what? i'm getting there. >> eric: it has to be even, the sauce. champignons. >> jean: champignons, jambon, fromage. >> eric: okay, ham, mushroom, and cheese. let's go. >> anthony: come on, man. the customers are backing up here. how about the pizza? >> eric: my pizza looks good, okay? >> anthony: bonsoir. >> eric: take that. give it to the lady. no, no, no. a little bit like that, and give it to the lady. a little bit like that. like that, like that, okay. good. >> female customer: hello. this one i owe? [ eric speaking french ] >> anthony: très bien. pizza, i soon notice, is different here. toppings are somewhat on the high end. crème fraîche, reblochon cheese, figatelli, lardons, figs, chèvre. look at this line. stop dicking around with your insane perfectionism. >> eric: tony, you want pizza the guy. >> anthony: yes. [ male customer speaking french ] >> anthony: can you translate this for me? i think this man is speaking in profanities to me. how long have you been working on this pizza? michelangelo worked on the sistine chapel for less time. >> eric: there's a line of people waiting, tony. >> anthony: mood is turning ugly out there. >> eric: tony, the lady wants a pizza. >> anthony: he's new. he's new. i -- i -- i can't do anything with him. >> eric: what happened? you have a union break or what? >> anthony: yeah. hey, this is france. i get a nice break. have i worked my 22-hour week yet? 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[ eric speaking french ] [ vendor speaking french ] >> anthony: okay, good. need more money. >> eric: so we open two reds? we're going to be smashed. >> vendor: ciao. >> anthony: merci, ciao. >> eric: merci beaucoup. >> anthony: we'll be needing that. okay, that's our cheese selection. here's our pomme de terre, which i'll be artfully plating. baking like a meatloaf all of a sudden. you go from freezing to high heat. i'm telling you this provence it's like, uh -- >> eric: it's rough, huh? >> anthony: it's rough. >> eric: hey, this is not bad, huh? >> anthony: by the time we're halfway through this bottle we'll think this is as good as the finest bordeaux. and, by the way, we are not suggesting, advising, recommending, or in any way condoning the driving of a motor vehicle, especially a high-powered italian-french hybrid while drunk because that would be wrong. >> eric: no, we're going to take a nap before. >> anthony: right, until our blood alcohol level is in alignment with all local regulations and laws. >> eric: i'm going to put salt on the tomatoes. like that. oh, that's going to be good like that. >> anthony: you know martha stewart pretty well. you've been on her show a lot. >> eric: yeah, yeah. >> anthony: give me an honest answer. >> eric: yeah. >> anthony: in a street fight, could martha stewart choke me out? >> eric: i think if she goes to the dark side, yeah. >> anthony: i think so too. this is not like my show at all actually. i'm going to get shit for this, i'm telling you. "you're not keeping it real anymore, man." look, you know? it looks like a wine label. as a buddhist, does this worry you? >> eric: i'm sorry? >> anthony: as a buddhist does this worry you, considering how well this life has turned out for you? >> eric: no, it's good karma from my previous life. i have to -- >> anthony: well, how long can that karma last? >> eric: until it's dead. it ends. >> anthony: when do you think that might be? >> eric: anytime soon, you never know. karma switch like that. boom, done. >> anthony: what would you not want to come back as? what would a worst-case scenario be in the next life? >> eric: how many chances do you have to be born as what you are or what i am? in that entire universe. >> anthony: isn't that worrying to you? the next life cannot be possibly better than this? it's probably going to suck. i mean, best case scenario, you know, in our next life, maybe if you get to sit in a sub shop in asbury park, new jersey, that will be the greatest day of your life. that would be the best-case scenario. >> eric: but the most challenging. >> anthony: more likely you end up, you know, a mime. a diseased itinerant mime wandering the streets scrounging for money or worse. >> eric: you're a desperate case. i don't know what to do with you. >> anthony: i'm just saying. how much better can it be than this? enjoy every minute of this now, eric, and pray, pray, pray that this is it. that at the end of the day, they roll you into a hole in the ground and you're diet for worms, because if you're right and there is a next life we are -- my friend. >> eric: well, the ultimate idea is to be enlightened. to come back and help as many people as you can so all phenomenons of life, and what you perceive as reality, is ultimately one. let's leave it at that. >> anthony: serenity now. cheers. >> eric: cheers. >> anthony: with our bellies full, we are now prepared for the challenge to come. this is robert and daniel of the village's petanque team. the hilltop village of roussillon is where our epic battle is to take place. four men enter thunder dome. only two shall leave. now, look at these guys. we're totally getting hustled. yeah, we're in trouble. >> eric: now they're not joking anymore. >> anthony: yeah, i know. usa, usa, usa. >> eric: oh! we have one point. >> anthony: all right, so our humiliation is not total. that's all we really were looking for. >> eric: it's only what we care. the rest we don't care. success. >> anthony: okay, success. okay, which one is me? >> eric: i don't know. jinx it. jinx it. you know you do hamsa, hamsa, hamsa. that's the jinx. hamsa, hamsa, hamsa. hamsa, hamsa, hamsa. see? told you. >> anthony: you're wishing evil on others. you're totally coming back as a sea cucumber. >> eric: ah! yep! >> anthony: we're wiping the floor with these yokels. it's like "deliverance" in reverse. no. >> eric: we have no ch -- >> anthony: what is it? 10-10 now? >> eric: 10-10. this is the winning point. >> anthony: i know you're so into this. i can't believe it. you're so competitive. >> eric: my jacket. >> anthony: oh yeah, blame your jacket. there you go. usa. woo. i've never seen him so happy. all right. it's miller time. >> eric: monsieur. santé. >> anthony: santé. merci. i've never seen this side of you, man. i don't know what to think. >> eric: i cannot believe it. i'm like, wow. do you take aspirin? plain aspirin could be hurting your stomach. new vazalore is the first liquid-filled aspirin capsule clinically shown to cause fewer ulcers than plain aspirin. vazalore is designed to help protect... releasing aspirin after it leaves your stomach... where it is absorbed to give you the benefits of life saving aspirin... to help prevent another heart attack or stroke. heart protection with your stomach in mind. try new liquid-filled vazalore. aspirin made amazing! 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[ coughing and sneezing ] cold season is back. bounce back fast with alka seltzer plus. with 25% more concentrated power. alka-seltzer plus. ♪ oh, what a relief it is ♪ so fast! also try for cough, mucus & congestion. ♪ >> anthony: they call them le calanque, the many coves of fjords cutting through the rock and soil of the coast on both sides of the city. they are a distinctively beautiful feature of an already beautiful area, but no matter how beautiful the cliffs and chasms of le calanque, i sure as hell wouldn't care to dive straight into water of indeterminate depth from a great height. no, i would not do that. >> lionel: welcome to my bedroom. >> eric: yeah. >> anthony: wow. >> eric: it's where you jump? >> lionel: yes. >> eric: from here? >> lionel: 18 meters. >> eric: it's only 18 meters? >> lionel: yes. >> eric: it looks like it's much more. >> anthony: lionel franc, known to his friends as lulu, grew up around le calanque. and yes, he would do that. he does it almost every day. >> eric: you're very close so you have to like propel yourself? >> anthony: i can't even look at you doing that. >> eric: that's it? you're done? >> anthony: i'm done. don't like heights. oh jeez. i look at him and my calves start turning to jelly. >> eric: look at the fish, tony. look at the fish. >> anthony: wow. [ lionel speaking french ] >> anthony: so after you belly flop and your food squirts out both ends of you, the fish will feed on it. >> eric: that's why they're coming. >> anthony: yeah. oh jeez. >> eric: oh, look at that. exactly like me in the morning. before breakfast. >> anthony: okay, good for me. ♪ ooh. hey, all right. [ laughs ] come on, man. you can do that. >> eric: i don't know. >> anthony: impressive. >> eric: yeah, it's very impressive. does he get paid for that? >> anthony: i don't know. look, as long as he's not a mime, i'm okay with it. >> eric: he's definitely not a mime. >> anthony: even the smell of mime makeup, i start to tremble with fear. >> eric: so it's a phobia? >> anthony: it's a serious phobia. don't like it. mimes, clowns, nurse's shoes. those white nurse's shoes. >> eric: oh, the clogs. >> anthony: no, they're like super comfortable like, and they're white, but not like super white because they've been, you know walking through various bodily fluids, and there's a little speck of blood or urine on it. that's true terror. wow. >> eric: bravo. >> lionel: you just can't panic in these cases. no panic. if you do the plane like this, if there is wind or not you keep like this. if you move, it's a disaster. >> anthony: missed it by that much. too many men on this show. it's a freaking bro-fest. like most places the overwhelming majority of chefs in marseille are men. however, each month, georgiana viou hosts a dinner for her female colleagues. chefs all. everybody here a chef in the business? >> emmanuelle: yeah. >> anthony: how many more are there like you? >> georgiana: maybe three or four in marseille. >> marine: france kind of machist -- >> woman: macho. >> marine: -- country, and if you want to find your place in the brigade, it's very difficult when you are a girl. really. >> tania: but actually, like in the mediterranean, the example for cooking, the basic is called la cuisinière provençale. >> georgiana: yeah. >> marine: because if you want to have good food you don't go to restaurants in marseille that much. you know that your grandmother or your mother will cook much better. >> anthony: georgiana is from benin via nigeria and london, but beyond all else she is marseillais. beef tartar with boutargue, dried mullet eggs, apple, and celeriac. counterintuitive one would think, but truly amazing and delicious. >> georgiana: i'm coming from paris and i used to cook with butter and cream and whatever, and today i can't imagine my cuisine without olive oil, without vegetables, without seafood, without spices. and on the top you're going to put some boutargue. it will be the salt of the tartar. >> eric: it's a good idea. i mean, it's better than putting anchovies. >> georgiana: if you want, you can do it at le bernardin and you call it georgiana's tartar. >> eric: i'm going to do it. i send you the picture. >> georgiana: sure. >> eric: seriously. i'm going to do it. >> georgiana: ah cool. trop bien. >> anthony: and my single favorite marseillais classic -- pied et paquets -- a dish which encapsulates everything i love and believe in about food. first, the hair on the sheep's foot is burned off. the meat is then tenderized and cut into pieces. sheep's tripe is cleaned and cut into squares. each piece is stuffed with onions, parsley, garlic, and salt pork before being rolled and wrapped into small pouches. these are stewed for several hours in a sauce of white wine, tomatoes, bacon, onion and carrots along with the sheep's foot. i love this dish. >> eric: i love this dish too. >> anthony: this is everything i believe in, in food. this is just absolutely the top. >> eric: it's a dish with soul. to make it good, you have to put your soul into it. >> georgiana: yes, and my soul is this. >> eric: and if you don't have it, you don't have pied et paquets. >> anthony: i like it here. he's already thinking about retiring here. >> woman: in marseille, sure. >> anthony: he said, "i could retire here." >> eric: i said, "i could retire here, yeah." yeah, why not? >> georgiana: no, no, no. i'm happy to hear that. >> eric: you've got me like -- >> marine: this is not an easy city. it is not a museum, disneyland, you know? everything is kind of dirty and complicated, but when you are in marseille and just you have the fantastic light and the sea and you can have the best fishes, yes, you are home. i mean, it's just like being home. ♪ superpowers from a spider bite? i could use some help showing the world how liberty mutual customizes their car insurance so they only pay for what they need. (gasps) ♪ did it work? only pay for what you need ♪ liberty. liberty. liberty. liberty. ♪ spider-man no way home in theaters december 17th sustainability is essential to creating a better tomorrow. that's why cisco is committed to achieving net zero emissions by 2040. and we believe our smart buildings solutions can help. providing power to reduce emissions, intelligence to eliminate waste, and collaboration tools that help the workplace and the planet. between meeting human needs and a sustainable future, there's a bridge. cisco, the bridge to possible. ♪ >> anthony: marseille is not france in the best possible way. algerians, moroccans, italians, their cultural and culinary influences have enriched marseille with flavors and colors all their own. but there's another major influence. the corsican mafia, who to be fair along with their italian-sicilian colleagues, did kind of run things around here for much of the last century. those days are mostly over and the corsican presence has dwindled to a few thousand, which is a shame, because corsica produces some of the most wonderful charcuterie and cheese anywhere. >> eric: she does a lot of preparations with pancetta and cheese. >> anthony: awesome. we want everything. u mio paese. a cured meat and cheese shop run by marie paul and family still going after 70 years. famously or notoriously or however you want to put it, this was a corsican town. i mean, when i would go to arcachon as a kid, my aunt probably a typical, you know, sort of xenophobic french women of her, of her generation said, "oh, the corsicans, you know, they're all gangsters or policemen." >> eric: ah, très bien, merci. >> anthony: oh, today just got better, lovely. >> eric: that's no joke. >> anthony: very flavorful, right? >> eric: this one is unbelievable. the flavor of that is unbelievable. >> anthony: yeah, they're not dicking around. >> eric: it lingers too. >> anthony: this, i love this. this makes me happy. want some? here, have a piece, here. it's good for you. >> eric: who wants some? this is the coppa. this one is special. that's coppa. >> anthony: all right, let's move on. some cheese. ah, look at that. that's beautiful. >> eric: those ones are milder and young. those ones are strong. >> anthony: oh, wow. that is some -- wow. >> eric: this one too. it looks very inoffensive, but it's like ooh! >> anthony: that is some deep funk. that is some, wow. see when i eat cheese like this, and i drink wine like this, i start thinking about my don cheech fantasies. maybe you saw "godfather ii"? >> eric: yeah, of course. >> anthony: i just think i could just spend the rest of my life sitting in a hill in corsica, eating goat cheese and drinking wine and having my enemies killed by remote control. >> eric: i would love to live that lifestyle, except for killing enemies. as you know, i'm not killing anyone, but -- >> anthony: i've never seen you wish ill on anyone. as long as i've known you, you've never even said, "that rat bastard, i hope something really bad happens. i hope he gets stomach cancer." or you've never even said, "i hope he loses his girlfriend." you've never wished ill on anyone. so let me ask, in your darkest heart of hearts, do you ever stray? do you ever find yourself thinking, "oh i really hope they just, i don't know, i hope they get herpes." i wish ill on people everyday. >> eric: i'm sorry, tony. you know, i mean, cheers to hell. >> anthony: it's a big night in marseilles. >> anthony: it's a big night in marseilles. the city's football team, that's soccer team to you, is playing, which means the whole city is watching. eric and i head to the hipster plein neighborhood to meet up with gilles rof, a filmmaker and sports writer for france's top newspaper, "le monde". so tonight the big game, it's marseille, lille. >> gilles: it's lille against marseille because it's in lille. it's not here. >> anthony: it's in lille. so we get to watch it on tv, and will all of marseille be watching this? >> gilles: yeah. >> anthony: everybody is going to be watching. >> gilles: you know, we did a very good season, but at the end of the season, we are only fourth, and it's very important, so it's a must win today. >> anthony: so it's a must win? right. so the dream of every marseillais, the perfect season would be to see marseille crush paris and then move on and go all the way. >> gilles: they don't want to be second to paris, you know? they want to be second to none, and in football, it's one of the only issues where they can be first. that's why people here love so much their soccer team, because it's the place where you can show your identity. if you go all around those streets and you ask people, "where are you from?" they will tell you, "oh i'm from algeria," "i'm from morocco," but if you ask them, "what is your favorite team?" they will say olympique de marseille. because they are a part of the city. they are from this city and the football team is the flag of this city. [ cheering ] >> anthony: yeah! >> eric: a gagner! santé. so you can enjoy more of...this. this is the planning effect. xfinity rewards are our way of thanking you just for being with us. enjoy rewards like movie night specials, xfinity mobile benefits, and the chance to win tickets to see watch what happens live. hey, it's me. plus, get holiday gifts for everyone on your list with great deals on fan favorites from today. join over a million members by signing up for free on the xfinity app. our thanks. your rewards. ♪ ♪ >> anthony: about 75 years ago the properties around le calanque were mostly farmland. then small shacks or cabanon, the working-class families from the city used as weekend getaways. no running water or indoor plumbing. simple. a place to get together. have a long winey lunch. hello. bonjour. you can't build new ones and the ones that are here like this one owned by dominique and nathalie lefrere have been in the same family since the '40s, and they ain't going anywhere. is this area protected, meaning if i wanted to open a giant modern hotel across there, is impossible, right? >> dominique: actually, it was just a couple of years ago, it was kind of scaled up on the protection level so nothing is going to happen now. >> anthony: and most of these properties are owned by the same family for many years. >> nathalie: my family has been coming here since 1949. >> anthony: right. >> nathalie: but we lived in marseille then we came here for weekends. >> anthony: that's nice. lunch is being prepared by andre guidicelli, known around here as day-day. panisse, crispy fried fritters of chickpea, which go really well with nathalie's aioli. and one of my favorites, murex, mediterranean sea snails simmered in a court bouillon of garlic, wild fennel, and orange peel. that's the taste of this region for me. it's garlic, olive oil, saffron. >> eric: sure. >> anthony: panisse. >> eric: panisse, exactly. >> anthony: and look at this. look at this. sardine, lightly marinated in lemon and olive oil. you can pretty much rub that all over me. i don't care. >> eric: so good, so fresh. >> anthony: perfect happiness for me. oily little fish in a garden. okay, so we've discussed the characteristics of the true marseillais. >> eric: yeah. >> anthony: is marseille, france? >> eric: ah. this is a good question. is marseille france? >> jacques: no. i'm french, i'm french. france is my country, but marseille comes first. i think your region would come first? >> dominique: you're loyal to new york before america. >> anthony: that's true. so what about the people? what do all true, true marseillais have in common? >> jacques: we're big liars. >> eric: ah. >> anthony: a big liar. >> eric: they have the reputation of exaggerating. so if you eat sardines like that. you're like, "at lunch we had sardines like this." >> anthony: daube de pouple, octopus stew. slow cooked in wine and typical elements of provencal cooking like star anise, dried orange peel, garlic, and tomato. spoon over pasta and enjoy. oh yes. i can smell that octo-stock. it's fantastic. [ nathalie speaking french ] >> anthony: so, when are you retiring? at what age? >> eric: soon as possible, seriously. right? >> woman: are you going to come back too? >> eric: yeah, i don't want to leave. i mean, when you see that, that lifestyle, people come from all over europe by highways, they spend hours in their car to be here. i mean, my grandparents and my uncles used to have that lifestyle. exactly like that. >> anthony: right. >> eric: and i forgot about it. now i'm remembering. >> anthony: i'm telling you. our chain of cynical surf and turf restaurants. we can cash out in two years. no? >> eric: if it is to be here? yeah. i'll do it. >> anthony: you heard it here first. ♪ ♪ >> robie: this place was a boomin'. you couldn't get through this town down there. but it's dead now. about eight or ten coal mines shut down at one time. >> coach: let's go! it's the same halftime speech every single week. >> quentin: there is so much negativity