it's literally like you're living inside a museum. even if you've never been to rome, you've been to rome. its stories have been told and retold on stage and screen. the city of togas and gladiators, power and intrigue, empire and ruin. and of course la dolce vita, the good life. i'm stanley tucci, italian on both sides, and i'm traveling across italy to discover how the food in each of this country's 20 regions is as unique as the people and their past. the famous ancients of rome once ruled the world. but i'm here to discover how it's the food of ordinary romans that has conquered our hearts. but i'm going to warn you. if you're on a low-carb diet, beware. you're going to see a lot of pasta in this show. i mean, like, a lot of it. like a lot. i'm sorry. ♪ i've been visiting rome for decades. its beauty and history still leave me breathless. but sometimes it's difficult to find a good meal if you don't know where to look. rome is situated in lazio, a region sometimes overlooked in favor of its grander er gastroc neighbors like tuscany and umbria. but lazio has fed rome for centuries and every part of the sheep and pigs raised here is put to use in kitchens across the city to make deeply flavorsome food. to start my journey, i'm catching up with my old friend claudia. she's lived here virtually her whole life. and her cardinal rule for good food is, when in rome, eat as the romans do. >> are you okay? >> i'm good, are you okay? i'm sure happy to see you. >> it was a long time. >> it was a long time. somehow almost 30 years has slipped by since we first became friends, when we worked on a movie here together. >> i think that you came last time -- >> the very first time was like '95. >> no, i think '93 because it was -- >> really? i didn't know i was that old. >> i know, me neither. let's not mention it. >> claudia wants to take me for a classic roman pasta lunch. but with an hour to kill, we decide to get a coffee and reminisce. >> san caliste is a real institution. >> but that's where we went a long time ago. >> yeah, yeah. we were there every evening, you know? >> back in the '90s, we used to hang out in a great cafe in trastevre, a grimy part of town very much on the wrong side of the river. >> and here we are. >> and i was pleased to hear it's still going strong. >> you remember? >> yes, i do. i do. >> what's there? >> oh my god. >> the picture you gave them in '93. it is exactly in the same place. i think nothing changed in this place. >> no, it hasn't changed. a little espresso would be just enough to whet our appetites before we go to lunch. or so i thought. >> i know, i know. >> what's that? who's joining us? these are roman breakfast with a 2,000-year-old history. >> you cannot resist one of these. >> in the middle ages, they were one of the few sweet things the church allowed you to eat during lent. it doesn't seem very saintly to me. is it like a brioche? >> yeah, and it's even healthier compared to this. this is fried, it's a sort of doughnut with egg cream. >> the italians don't eat breakfast like the americans or british or dutch eat breakfast. >> no. >> because they don't do eggs and bacon and -- it's always something sweet. >> yeah. si, yeah. nice to see you again. ciao. as we staggered off our breakfast and headed through triestevre, i noticed that the area was much busier and hipper than years ago. >> this was the poor quarters. you see the buildings as nice as they are very small. >> right. >> and then, of course, as it happens, you know, the old quarters got very trendy and everybody wanted to live here. >> and they become more gentrified. >> yeah. >> yeah. the city may be changing, but one thing that's as constant as the ancient landmarks is how much people in rome love their pasta. four-star dishes in particular have become an emblem of the city. and claudia is taking me to find out more at a place she says the is pantheon of pasta. the restaurant is fully booked. >> but we don't care. >> we don't care. >> ciao. tell me some more about pasta in rome. >> pasta in rome is like, you eat it every day. i mean, you don't live without pasta. and everybody has its own recipe, and of course it's the best ever, and yours is nothing compared to mine. >> it's true. it does become very territorial, doesn't it? >> yeah. >> romans revere what they call the four pastas. nice to see you. thank you for having me. simple but iconic dishes of staggering deliciousness. they are creamy pasta made with mainly sheep cheese and pepper. an ancient dish which has added pork. its luxurious cousin, carbonara, which is elevated with egg yolks. and finally, our lunch today, made with tomatoes. and this roman favorite, fatty pork cheek. they're a base for a lot of different dishes in rome. we would normally use pancetta, but the taste is totally different. >> pancetta, no, no. >> yes, terrible, yes. >> thank you. thank you so much. >> pasta is delicious. delicious. the sauce is actually quite light, which is nice. and really delicate. >> yeah, yeah, it is. >> no, no. i kept a place in my stomach for this. >> oh, because we didn't eat the -- >> my god. >> no. >> across the city, every single day, romans eat pasta that has ancient bonds to their surrounding countryside. now, it's hard to imagine, but this iconic food was once at this iconic food was once at risk of being banned in italy. the same way you do. shop exclusive styles from our collections, including vera wang love, enchanted disney, endless brilliance and so much more. shop online with a virtual consultant. exclusively at zales. the diamond store. i don't like veggies... what?! ♪ whatever you have at home, knorr sides can turn nutritious veggies into mouthwatering meals. ♪ veggies taste amazing with knorr. ready to talk anti-brass haircolor? 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one story i'd always heard is that carbonara came about when the american soldiers in rome during the war started missing their bacon and eggs from back home and wanted them added to spaghetti. aldo, however, has his own theory . >> it seems some things are destined to remain roman myths. what everyone can agree on is that the carbonara here is incredible. >> are you ready? >> i know, i know. >> you have basically four ingredients -- pasta, eggs, the guanciale and cheese. that's it. but when i try it at home, it's never this good. my mother does that, too. you can just die now. when i taste pasta like this, i understand why it remains so important to the city. rome may be the seat of power and religion, but it's overwhelmingly a working class town. this is simple food that's been elevated over centuries by people making the best of what little they had available. they're rightly proud that their humble food has come to define italy to the entire world. yes. ( time after time continues to play softly ) start your someday with a ring from the neil lane collection. available at kay keeping your oysters business growing has you swamped. you need to hire. i need indeed indeed you do. the moment you sponsor a job on indeed you get a shortlist of quality candidates from a resume data base claim your seventy-five-dollar credit when you post your first job at indeed.com/promo kevin bacon here. you know me from six degrees of well... me. but it's time to expand. see, visible is wireless with no surprise fees, legit unlimited data, powered by verizon for as little as $25 a month. but when you bring a friend every month, you get every month for $5. so i'm bringing everyone within 12 degrees of me. bam, 12 months of $5 wireless. visible. as little as $25 a month. or $5 a month when you bring a friend. powered by verizon. wireless that gets better with friends. the new samsung galaxy s21 this looks different. it is. show me. just hit record! see that? you're filming in 8k. that's cinema quality. so... you can pull photos straight from video. impressive. but will it last the whole trip? you'll have battery all day. and then more. (horn beeps) this is different. told you. ♪ ♪ ♪ i've headed five miles out of the city center using the newly extended metro line. romans have a reputation for resisting change, and the arrival of the subway in 2014 has shaken up old, poor neighborhoods of the city. nowhere more so than centocelle. i'm meeting masimiliano, who is the editor of italy's most prestigious food journal, to find out what's going on. gentrification is moving in on this neighborhood, and food is on the front line. >> the neighborhood was born during roman empire. centocelle's roman name, it's 100 jails in english. >> 100 jails? >> jails, yeah, exactly. >> there may never have actually been 100 jails here, but what this area does have is three new subway stations all in close proximity. >> this thing changed the game. a lot of people came here to try to invest a bit. >> yeah. is this where we're going? >> yeah. >> let's go in and see what he's got. >> this area has long had a rough reputation. that's changing fast, though. and one place that's seen by some at ground zero for the transformation of the neighborhood is a deli. vincenzo opened this place well before the metro arrived. he wanted to rehabilitate the surrounding lazio region's mediocre reputation for food and bring the best of the countryside back for his neighbors to enjoy at fair prices. >> right, right. can i taste some? >> ah, si! >> pecorino cheese is made from sheep's milk, and rome is famous for it. historically, the animals were raised all around lazio as a cheaper alternative to cattle and crops. vincenzo goes further than some and searches in some unlikely places for chose that also helps his community. >> what does that mean? >> in the jail. >> oh, okay. only in italy would an ancient cheese recipe be saved by prisoners. >> really? right. right. yeah. that's delicious. as well as sheep's milk cheese, pork finds its way into almost every dish i've had in rome. historically, pigs were raised all around the city because they need less space than other animals. >> to me, vincenzo is doing something amazing. now people come here from around the city to this once-overlooked suburb. but over the past few years, another 50 to 60 food places have opened up nearby. >> romans are renowned for their stubborn resistance to change. i guess it's what's kept this city standing for centuries. but masimiliano wants to show me another cafe in the area, one of many that have opened in recent years. i wasn't fully prepared for what we found. >> it's hard to imagine, but a few months ago, this place was a thriving cafe and bookshop called the electric sheep. on the night of april 25, 2019, alessandra's cafe was firebombed. she set about rebuilding her business, but shockingly, the night before she was due to reopen, the attackers struck again. >> three local businesses have now been attacked like this here, including a pizza place and this jazz bar. the police still haven't found who's responsible. because she hosted community events at the cafe, including anti-fascist talks, suspicion has fallen on the far right. but others here blame local criminals protecting their old turf or even anti-gentrification campaigners. is this happening in other parts of rome, too? >> no. >> when change happens, romans resist. but whoever did this has made it dangerous to sell food. it seems brutal to attack restaurants and cafes in this city that is united in its love of eating together. jeff's been to the bottom of the ocean. the tops of mountains. and wherever this guy runs off to. a life well lived should continue at home. with home instead care, older adults can stay home, safe, and happy. home instead. to us, it's personal. the world around you may seem like an immovable, implacable place. it is not. it can be bright. quiet. and safe. it's a change that will be felt from this street. to this street. to no street. and everywhere in between. all it takes is the slightest push in just the right place and that will be the tipping point that changes everything. ♪ ♪ ready to talk anti-brass haircolor? new excellence cool supreme anti-brass haircolor by l'oreal paris. now, with a new purple system to fight brass week after week. and grays? one hundred percent covered. new excellence cool supreme by l'oreal paris. we're worth it! someday i'll ask you a question new excellence cool that will change me forever. ( time after time begins to play softly ) yes. ( time after time continues to play softly ) start your someday with a ring from the neil lane collection. available at kay ♪ tucked in a curve of the river tiber is testaccio, once known as the belly of rome. home to the old slaughterhouses that supplied 19th and 20th century romans with meat. so tell me about this place. >> this is the retired slaughterhouse. and for about 100 years until the 1970s it's where most large roman animals were slaughtered. basically from lambs all the way up through steer. >> this four square mile site will be redeveloped into a cultural area, but for now signs of its former life are everywhere. and where is the -- oh, yeah, the tracks for the carcasses, yeah. katey parla is a renown food writer who swapped new jersey for rome almost 20 years ago. >> you have the veal here -- >> oh. >> skinning happened there. it's an organized place with so many pavilions covering a vast area and really influencing the types of foods that would be eaten just across the street at the trattorias of the late 19th and early 20th century. >> in butchery the animal is quartered, and those cuts went straight up to the upper and middle class kitchens. everything that's leftover, the blood, brains and intestines was called the quinto quarto, the fifth quarter. and those were left to the poor. some workers were even paid with offal instead of money, so they had little choice but to make the best of it. one restaurant keeping these historic flavors alive and taking them into the 21st century is santo palato. if you know how to cook offal, you can turn the poorest cuts into the richest of dishes. >> we're hungry, right? >> starving. i haven't eaten in like an hour. >> and katey wants me to meet sara, a young chef with a growing reputation for doing amazing things with innards. >> she's going to make a fritatta for us, and it's topped with chicken innards. >> so everything we focus on here in the restaurant is offal. >> yes. >> yes, good. one egg per person, okay. >> yes. >> yeah. yeah. throughout the day -- >> oh, yeah. >> have it for breakfast, lunch, dinner. >> yeah. >> i like it in a sandwich. >> yes, in a sandwich. that's what i used to take when i was a kid to school. >> yes. >> chef sara gave up a medical school to pursue her dream of opening a restaurant. >> oh, yes. >> the stomach, the heart and the liver. >> in rome, you find ricotta and chicken organs, but separately. >> separate. >> but she's combined them. >> yeah. >> oh, wow. >> smell it. >> oh, yeah. >> don't forget about this bread. >> oh, wow, yeah. nice and hot. mm. that's great! >> thank you. >> that is -- great. >> this is really special. and i think it's a really good demonstration of what sara does really well, which is taking roman classic flavors and combining them in a way that's new, but not revolutionary or extra contemporary. they just make sense in the cuisine today. >> sara gets her scalpel into some beef heart, and we take a seat in the dining room. what's that? it really is a really unusual texture too, isn't it? all right, so to break down what the offal are, you have heart, liver, lungs, stomach, brain, sweetbreads, intestines. >> snout. >> snout? oh, yeah. >> the whole head, really. >> the whole head. >> if you think about it. >> yeah. >> if pasta is the first pillar of roman food, the astonishing use of offal is definitely the second. somehow poor romans turned these unpromising cuts into sheer culinary poetry. >> yes. >> great. >> i love oxtail. >> i'm so into it. so tasty. >> that's really good. >> and this is definitely a more carnivorous city than it is a fish city. >> without question. >> even though we're 15 miles from the sea -- >> i know. >> that was really, really far in pre-1970s standards before ice and refrigeration became more common. >> yeah, yeah. >> so, this is that honeycomb tripe with all those really beautiful pockets. >> yeah. >> lots of nice stomach geometry going on. >> i've never heard it described as stomach geometry. that makes it sound much, much more palatable. that is really good. >> it's boiled multiple times with vinegar. that tenderizes and cleans it. then it's cooked with tomato and mint. in rome this is really the only way you find tripe. go to another place, florence included, and the tripe is prepared differently. >> stewed stomach may not sound appealing, i know, but believe me, these are really tasty flavors. the roman poor didn't have much to work with, but against the odds they wound up making some of the very best food in the city. what can i say? thanks a lot. thank you so much, kate. today let's paint with behr ultra scuff defense... so that you can live that scuff-free life. honey, i'm home from my really important job! scuff defense. honey! scuff defense. 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[ ding ] you got paid! that means adding people to the payroll. hi mom. that means... best burger ever. intuit quickbooks helps small businesses be more successful with payments, payroll, banking and live bookkeeping. who takes care of yourself. so why wait to screen for colon cancer? because when caught in early stages, it's more treatable. i'm cologuard. i'm noninvasive and detect altered dna in your stool to find 92% of colon cancers even in early stages. tell me more. it's for people 45 plus at average risk for colon cancer, not high risk. false positive and negative results may occur. ask your prescriber or an online prescriber if cologuard is right for you. i'll do it. good plan. ♪ thank you very much. thank you, thank you. we're here in rome, and it's the most wonderful time of the year. no, it's not christmas. it's artichoke season. right now, markets across the city are humming with the sound of people hacking away at rome's favorite vegetable. so show me the artichokes. as i've been finding out with roman food, you sometimes have to dig a little to get to the good stuff. so this is where the -- once trimmed, they can be deep fried to make one of my all-time favorite roman foods, jewish fried artichokes. you know, my grandmother and my mother would make these. ask anyone here and they'll tell you this weird-looking vegetable is a definitive roman food. thank you so much. >> thank you, bye-bye. >> ciao, ciao. but what i love is that under those rough outer leaves, it contains an entire history. a story of how society's outcasts can change the habits of an entire city. these picturesque ruins once contained the misery of rome's jewish ghetto. from the 1500s onwards, the city's entire jewish community was locked in this walled area. only allowed to leave to do menial jobs in the daytime before being locked in at night. >> italia is in her 80s and has lived here her whole life. when the nazis seized rome in october 1943, the ghetto was a sitting target. and its 1,204 residents were sent to the gas chambers. italia was one of just a handful who escaped when her uncle hid her outside the city. for the few who survived, food became a vital link back to their past. the jews of rome had lived in poverty for centuries and were forced to rely on the cheapest of ingredients. >> using typical roman inventiveness, the jews transformed unloved ingredients like anchovies, eggplants, and artichokes into dishes that entire city would eventually take to its heart. alongside pasta and offal, the influence of jewish cooking is the third pillar of roman cuisine today. italia set up a restaurant serving the best jewish food in the ghetto. >> in this kitchen, italia and in this kitchen, italia and her crack team raised the humble artichoke into food for the ages. [ speaking foreign language ] >> ok. so this is that. that was done yesterday. cooked in oil and then refrigerated. [ speaking foreign language ] >> so spreading out the leaves. they're cooked, precooked. [ speaking foreign language ] >> look how beautiful that is. [ speaking foreign language ] >> that's the best one i've had. that is delicious. it's so addictive. it's like eating candy. you just can't stop. it's so crispy. [ speaking foreign language ] what people love. this dish tells a story. it has survived the darkest of times and links us to a past that was almost wiped out. to me, it's a type of historical monument in italian cooking, now beloved by everyone and proudly embraced by the entire city. ♪ ♪ like an echo in the forest ♪ ♪ (singing in korean) ♪ ♪ like an arrow in the blue sky ♪ ♪ (singing in korean) ♪ ♪ on my pillow, on my table ♪ ♪ yeah life goes on ♪ ♪ like this again ♪ ♪ oh oh oh oh ♪ ♪ like this again ♪ kevin bacon here. you know me from six degrees of well... me. but it's time to expand. see, visible is wireless with no surprise fees, legit unlimited data, powered by verizon for as little as $25 a month. but when you bring a friend every month, you get every month for $5. so i'm bringing everyone within 12 degrees of me. bam, 12 months of $5 wireless. visible. as little as $25 a month. or $5 a month when you bring a friend. powered by verizon. wireless that gets better with friends. jackson hewitt knows your job description may have changed this year. to say... account manager... third grade teacher... and senior vice dog-walker. don't add tax preparer. let jackson hewitt do it for you, so you can be certain your taxes are done right, guaranteed. oh, you think this is just a community center? no. it's way more than that. cause when you hook our community up with the internet... boom! look at ariana, crushing virtual class. jamol, chasing that college dream. michael, doing something crazy. this is the place where we can show the world what we can do. comcast is partnering with 1000 community centers to create wifi-enabled lift zones, so students from low-income families can get the tools they need to be ready for anything. oh we're ready. ♪ ♪ it's my last nights in rome. during my time here i've learned that, above all else, food in lit is about who you are and where you're from. but where does that leave you if you're an outsider? i've come to bistro 64, a restaurant that has won a michelin star for serving up some of the best italian food in the city. the thing is the chef is an out of towner. no t not from milan. he's from japan. [ speaking foreign language ] >> my pleasure. nice to meet you, too. he was lured here 20 years ago by his obsession with the flavors of italian cuisine. [ speaking foreign language ] notah's food has praise. tonight he's making the simplest roman classic. it's cachoo de peppa. literally cheese and pepper. there are just three main ingredients, but it tags great skill to make this roman favorite perfect. [ speaking foreign language ] of course. another italian kitchen secret . [ speaking foreign language ] >> i know you may be thinking this is ludicrous simple food but it's extraordinary. don't just take my word for it. where is karen? come here. >> all right. >> ok. this is karen, who works with us. one of the producers. she's from rome. so you tell us what you think, karen. >> ok. all right. >> go ahead. no pressure, no pressure. >> ok. >> he's not nervous at all. he doesn't care about our opinion. divine. yes. it's so good. it's perfectly creamy. it's not too intense. it's not overloaded with flavor. it's very good. it really respects, you know, how the secret in the family. [ speaking foreign language ] >> there's always a secret. >> there's always a secret, yes. >> when it comes to food, romans know what they like and like what they know. notah's menu is full of creations from sweet breads from purply lato. i was curious how the city had taken to his creations. [ speaking foreign language ] the downside of rome being so steeped in history is that sometimes great things are resisted because they're new and not what people are used to. missing food this good is a real shame. i'm sorry. but here's the thing. the one thing romans can't resist is a good meal. i hope sun noda's food will be a landmark in this eternal city . >> hello and welcome to our viewers here in the united states and all around the world. i'm michael holmes. appreciate your company. coming up here on "cnn newsroom." grief, anger and pure frustration. demanding justice for the killing of eight people, most of them asian americans. >> anyone here it's a good idea to get the vaccine, raise their handled. not one person here thinks it's

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