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Why a £250-a-head, 20-course tasting menu proves elite dining is more popular than ever


Guests sit at a horseshoe shaped bar
If certain economists are to be believed, inflation poses a far greater threat to the health of the nation than coronavirus. Yet from where I’m sitting – at one of the 18 places at Kitchen Table’s chef counter – I’m not convinced that these Cassandras of apocalypse have called it right. For there is a certain type of restaurant-goer for whom surging prices are not a harbinger of food shortages but a sign of quality dining. 
Kitchen Table launched in 2012 serving a tasting menu for a modest £68. After reopening with a full refurb last week, it now costs £250. That is a lot of money, but there is a lot of love out there for chef James Knappett and his sommelier wife Sandia Chang, which means you won’t get a reservation at Kitchen Table for love nor money. The one thing there is no shortage of in hospitality right now is ingredient-obsessives with a quarter of a grand to drop on dinner.  ....

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James Knappet to oversee the menu at Chelsea's Cadogan Arms


Well-known Chelsea pub The Cadogan Arms is to relaunch in July with Kitchen Table chef James Knappett overseeing the food.
Dominic Jacobs of The Running Horse Mayfair is spearheading the project as managing director having raised capital from a number of private investors, including Jyotin, Karam and Sunaina Sethi, the founders of JKS Restaurants and backers of Knappett at Kitchen Table. 
Overseeing the menu as culinary director, Knappett will draw inspiration from his first-hand experience of growing up in pubs.
He will work alongside executive chef Alex Harper, whose CV includes The Ledbury and The Harwood Arms - to ‘cement the public house’s food offering as one of London’s most celebrated with best-in-class British produce’. ....

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How I Got Here with sommelier and Bubbledogs co-founder Sandia Chang


The sommelier and Bubbledogs co-founder reflects on her career to date, what motives her, and what advice she would give to those looking to make it in the business.
Why restaurants? ​
When all the other girls in school wanted to be princesses, lawyers and doctors, I wanted to be a waitress. Creating great times around food and drink has always been a strong foundation in my family. 
Tell us something you wish you had been told at the start of your career? ​
Do harvests in vineyards when you get the chance. 
What’s your favourite restaurant or group of restaurants (besides your own)? ​ ....

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