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Flat out or time out? How Melbourne chefs are playing lockdown 5.0 Emma Breheny Photo: Eddie Jim Lucy Whitlow hasn t been in a restaurant kitchen for more than a week, but she s still kept to a strict schedule. The pastry chef at Osteria Ilaria in Melbourne s CBD is also a budding cheesemaker and COVID lockdown means more time to hone her craft. Mornings are spent making new cheeses, which takes about four hours, then in the afternoon she checks on those already draining in one of four refrigerators. Others might need brushing with brine to stop them drying out. Later, it s time to make her clabber – a term for fermented milk that behaves in a similar way to sourdough culture. Whitlow must feed the clabber 12 hours before she wants to make her next batch of cheese. ....
Melbourne is never shy of a restaurant opening, but there s a certain buzz when you realise you re at the start of a relationship that s going somewhere. I strongly suspect Aru is the new squeeze you ll rush to tell your friends about and want more of as soon as possible. Maybe it s the drama of half a crisp-skinned suckling pig s head, fringed by leaves and condiments for wrapping and rolling. Or seeing a breakout star of last year s lockdown, chef Khanh Nguyen s banh mi-flavoured pâté en croute, here at Aru full-time. Perhaps it s the sensory thrill of a space where all the elemental tones of rock and timber are a pitch-perfect match for the heady smell of sweet smoke, and where a whip crack service team guides and lifts the experience in a way you d have killed for while locked at home. What is certain is that the good times come fast and furious at the long-awaited sibling to Sunda, and it may be the shot in the arm that our people-starved CBD needs. ....