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Just over 50% of Californians are at least partially vaccinated, and COVID-19 cases across the state have decreased nearly 13% in the last week alone. Los Angeles entered the
yellow reopening tier early this month. Dining out has returned in force. Tasting-menu restaurants are suddenly booked out two months in advance. The noontime lines again trail from nearly every truck serving tacos and mariscos along Olympic Boulevard in Boyle Heights.
Within this framework, columnist Jenn Harris and I compiled a
springtime guide highlighting outdoor dining. Restaurants are welcoming customers back inside dining rooms with increased capacities; for some people takeout remains the most comfortable, safest option. Emphasizing restaurants with outside spaces felt like the soundest focus for us.
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Genet Agonafer never thought she would close her dining room, but then again, she never thought she would own a restaurant in the first place.
The former flight attendant, caterer and now proprietor of one of L.A.’s most beloved Ethiopian restaurants has spent 21 years as the sole chef of Meals by Genet, a white-tablecloth gathering place at the heart of Fairfax’s Little Ethiopia district.
In March 2020, the din of the busy dining room the clinking of wine glasses, the conversations and laughter as guests tore sheaths of injera to scoop up doro wot chicken stew came to an abrupt halt, as was the case in so many restaurants across California. After a month off, Meals by Genet became takeout only. Since then, Agonafer’s had a lot of time to think about her future.