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Genet Agonafer never thought she would close her dining room, but then again, she never thought she would own a restaurant in the first place.
The former flight attendant, caterer and now proprietor of one of L.A.’s most beloved Ethiopian restaurants has spent 21 years as the sole chef of Meals by Genet, a white-tablecloth gathering place at the heart of Fairfax’s Little Ethiopia district.
In March 2020, the din of the busy dining room — the clinking of wine glasses, the conversations and laughter as guests tore sheaths of injera to scoop up doro wot chicken stew — came to an abrupt halt, as was the case in so many restaurants across California. After a month off, Meals by Genet became takeout only. Since then, Agonafer’s had a lot of time to think about her future.