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Greg Noll, swaggering big-wave surfer known as 'Da Bull,' dies at 84

Greg Noll, swaggering big-wave surfer known as ‘Da Bull,’ dies at 84
Harrison Smith
Riding waves at Waimea Bay, the dangerous and revered surf break on Oahu’s North Shore, Greg Noll would orient himself by triangulating with two local Hawaiian landmarks, a church steeple and a cemetery. Guided by those symbols of God and death, he dropped in on enormous waves that threatened to explode on top of him, crashing down with a roar that could be heard a mile away.
Mr. Noll, a former California lifeguard, was widely credited with leading the opening charge at Waimea, helping to extinguish a taboo that had persisted since 1943, when surfer Dickie Cross drowned while trying to make his way to shore. After more than a decade in which surfers avoided the break, Mr. Noll and a few others paddled out in November 1957, dropping in on 15-foot waves and showing that it was possible to ride there without being crushed to death or pulled out to sea in a ripti ....

Crescent City , United States , San Diego , Waimea Bay , Manhattan Beach , Smith River , Hermosa Beach , Huntington Beach , Gerry Lopez , Douglasc Pizac , Jeff Clark , Greg Lawhead , Stacy Peralta , Andrea Gabbard , Matt Warshaw , Peter Townend , Greg Noll , James Mitchum , Fred Hemmings , Dickie Cross , Los Angeles , Robert Mitchum , Associated Press , North Shore , Wild Surf , Life Over ,

Surfing & Cannabis: A Potted History - Wavelength Surf Magazine

Surfing & Cannabis: A Potted History - Wavelength Surf Magazine
wavelengthmag.com - get the latest breaking news, showbiz & celebrity photos, sport news & rumours, viral videos and top stories from wavelengthmag.com Daily Mail and Mail on Sunday newspapers.

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Becker, Eaton shaped surfing

Becker, Eaton shaped surfing
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Mike Eaton (far left) and Phil Becker (in straw hat) with fellow Peninsula surfers, Eddie Clark, Ricky Burns, Richie Clark, Jared Eaton and Frankie Shinn at the end with the zinc oxide nose. The picture was taken at Bluff Cove by May Clark, Eddie’s wife, around ‘54 or ‘55, according to the Eatons’ sister Ann (Eaton) Medve. Photo courtesy of Steve Mangiagli
Phil Becker and Mike Eaton grew up on the Peninsula to become two of the most prolific and influential surfboard shapers in surfing history
by Kevin Cody
Phil Becker and Mike Eaton grew up on the Peninsula, across the street from one another, and retired near to one another on the Big Island of Hawaii. Between those periods, during the Gold Era of Surfing, the lifelong friends became celebrated surfboard shapers. ....

Bluff Cove , United States , Big Island , Lunada Bay , San Diego , Hermosa Beach , Huntington Beach , Mike Purpus , Sam George , Matt Warshaw , Jack Oneill , Kevin Cody , Gibby Gibson , John Henry , Dave Hollander , John Van Hamersveld , Mike Mcintire , Bob Hogan , Mike Eaton , Jeff Hackman , Rick Stoner , Van Hamersveld , Palos Verdes , Phil Becker , Hennessey Us Paddleboad , Dale Velzy ,

Death Trip | The Surfers Journal

Death Trip | The Surfers Journal
surfersjournal.com - get the latest breaking news, showbiz & celebrity photos, sport news & rumours, viral videos and top stories from surfersjournal.com Daily Mail and Mail on Sunday newspapers.

New York , United States , Long Island , Waimea Bay , Sunset Beach , San Francisco , Shane Dorian , Noel Robinson , Jim Rutenberg , Buzzy Trent , Van Bastolaer , Todd Chesser , Malik Joyeux , Greg Long , Raimana Van Bastolaer , Reef Mcintosh , Scott Hulet , Adam Wright , Woody Brown , Dickie Cross , Travis Pastrana , Ken Bradshaw , Jay Moriarty , Garrett Mcnamara , Eddie Aikau , Jeff Clark ,

Mike Eaton was the go-to big gun surfboard shaper shaper

Mike Eaton, at age 65, holds up the Oldest Finisher’s trophy following the 2000 Catalina Classic. With him are Gibby Gibson, who co-founded the race in 1955 and Buddy Bohn, who resurrected the race in 1982. The trophy was carved by Bob Hogan, who previously held the oldest finisher’s title. Hogan completed the Classic in 1995, at age 63, four decades after having co-founded the race with Gibson. Photo by Kevin Cody
by Mike Purpus
Mike Eaton went with fellow shaper and Palos Verdes childhood friend Phil Becker to Hawaii’s North Shore in the mid ‘70s to make big wave boards for pro surfers like Palos Verdes native like Jeff Hackman and Peter “PT” Towend and his fellow Bronzed Aussies. I borrowed a few of their big wave guns for my heats in The Duke Kahanamoku Surfing Invitational, The Smirnoff Pro/Am Surfing Invitational and The Hang Ten Surfing Championships. ....

Sunset Beach , Western Australia , Mike Eaton , Mike Purpus , Jeff Hackman , Ian Cairns , Matt Warshaw , Palos Verdes , Jim Wildman Neece , Jeff Johnson , Roger Erickson , Phil Becker , North Shore , Duke Kahanamoku Surfing Invitational , Hang Ten Surfing , Hang Ten Surfing Championships , Aussie Ian Cairns , James Bond Style , Kaena Point , Playa Del Rey , Flippy Hoffman , சூரிய அஸ்தமனம் கடற்கரை , மேற்கு ஆஸ்திரேலியா , மைக் ஈட்டன் , ஜெஃப் ஹேக்மேன் , ஈயந் கெய்ர்ன்ஸ் ,