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Waimea Bay: the birthplace of big wave surfing

Waimea Bay: the birthplace of big wave surfing
surfertoday.com - get the latest breaking news, showbiz & celebrity photos, sport news & rumours, viral videos and top stories from surfertoday.com Daily Mail and Mail on Sunday newspapers.

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"Da Bull": Poster boy of big wave surfing dies at 84


“Da Bull”: Poster boy of big wave surfing dies at 84
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July 10, 2021 2.46pm
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GREG NOLL: 1937–2021
Greg Noll, who has died aged 84, became the first poster boy of big wave surfing, and in 1969 he famously surfed Hawaii’s biggest ever swell.
Nicknamed “Da Bull” for his fearlessness and stocky bodybuilder’s physique, Noll was one of a group of Californian longboarders who migrated to the North Shore of the Hawaiian island of Oahu in the 1950s in search of the perfect wave.
Surfing great Greg Noll on his deck at home that overlooks the Smith River near Crescent City. ....

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Greg Noll, swaggering big-wave surfer known as 'Da Bull,' dies at 84


Greg Noll, swaggering big-wave surfer known as ‘Da Bull,’ dies at 84
Harrison Smith
Riding waves at Waimea Bay, the dangerous and revered surf break on Oahu’s North Shore, Greg Noll would orient himself by triangulating with two local Hawaiian landmarks, a church steeple and a cemetery. Guided by those symbols of God and death, he dropped in on enormous waves that threatened to explode on top of him, crashing down with a roar that could be heard a mile away.
Mr. Noll, a former California lifeguard, was widely credited with leading the opening charge at Waimea, helping to extinguish a taboo that had persisted since 1943, when surfer Dickie Cross drowned while trying to make his way to shore. After more than a decade in which surfers avoided the break, Mr. Noll and a few others paddled out in November 1957, dropping in on 15-foot waves and showing that it was possible to ride there without being crushed to death or pulled out to sea in a ripti ....

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