Local ingredients and new takes on traditional dishes figure prominently on menus created by younger generations of local chefs and restaurateurs, as well as foreign chefs who have made the Irish capital their home.
It’s not you, it’s me. The tripe is the last savoury dish to arrive to the table, and I’m half hoping it’s been forgotten. We’ve already eaten a lot of food, ordering one of everything on the menu because it’s hard to decide what to leave out. I’m happy to see the day’s offering of small plates still comes scrawled in Sharpie on both sides of a small, brown paper bag, just as it did the last time I was here, back in those innocent pre-pandemic days when life was more gentle than it is now. Assassination Custard remains a refreshingly notion-free zone, which is more than can be said for many of the restaurants I visit, and the menu still changes daily.