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Moderate (mains $20-$40) The key to survival in a changing ecosystem is not being the strongest organism, but the one that can adapt and modify its behaviour to the changing environment. We don t do suits any more, says Craig Hemmings, as he scoots around the new Wine Room at Manly Greenhouse in jeans and sneakers. That person is gone. I had to exorcise him. Luckily he hasn t thrown everything else out as well. The sort of skills honed over years as restaurant manager at Guillaume at Bennelong, Black By Ezard and Bistecca in Singapore aren t easily shed. It s muscle memory now, ingrained. (Same for me, but at the table.) ....