we d get our ass kicked. by a hawaiian. anthony: how many generations does it take? i mean, who qualifies as hawaiian in your view? mark: to me a hawaiian is a kanaka maoli, is a native of the land. it s in your blood, your koko. you come from a lineage of native hawaiian people. anthony: what s your feeling here? andrew: i do feel like i m hawaiian in a sense. you know, because it s, like, my place. but culturally it s a different story. anthony: well let me ask you this, you re saying you re not hawaiian? mark: no. anthony: what s your feeling about spam? mark: i love, i love spam. anthony: so you re hawaiian. mark: i m from hawaii. i m born and raised, gonna die 808. anthony: the owners of ethel s are a sort of typical hawaiian mix. okinawan ryoko ishii, aka mom. mainland japanese husband yoichii. daughter minaka, who i guess would be japanese-okinawan-american slash hawaiian. and son-in-law robert who is, of course, mexican. mark: it s the pig feet. anthon
and i was like, no, no, no, no. i m second generation japanese. no, no but you re from hawaii that makes you hawaiian. and it was like, no. and then what i realize is like here in hawaii we identify ourselves ethnically versus geographically. like, there s no way that he and i would call ourselves hawaiian. we d get our ass kicked. by a hawaiian. anthony: how many generations does it take? i mean, who qualifies as hawaiian in your view? mark: to me a hawaiian is a kanaka maoli, is a native of the land. it s in your blood, your koko. you come from a lineage of native hawaiian people. anthony: what s your feeling here? andrew: i do feel like i m hawaiian in a sense. you know, because it s, like, my place. but culturally it s a different story. anthony: well let me ask you this, you re saying you re not hawaiian? mark: no. anthony: what s your feeling about spam? mark: i love, i love spam. anthony: so you re hawaiian. mark: i m from hawaii. i m born and raised, g
no, no but you re from hawaii that makes you hawaiian. and it was like, no. and then what i realize is like here in hawaii we identify ourselves ethnically versus geographically. like, there s no way that he and i would call ourselves hawaiian. we d get our ass kicked. by a hawaiian. anthony: how many generations does it take? i mean, who qualifies as hawaiian in your view? mark: to me a hawaiian is a kanaka maoli, is a native of the land. it s in your blood, your koko. you come from a lineage of native hawaiian people. anthony: what s your feeling here? andrew: i do feel like i m hawaiian in a sense. you know, because it s, like, my place. but culturally it s a different story. anthony: well let me ask you this, you re saying you re not hawaiian? mark: no. anthony: what s your feeling about spam? mark: i love, i love spam. anthony: so you re hawaiian. mark: i m from hawaii. i m born and raised, gonna die 808. anthony: the owners of ethel s are a sort of typic
identities. it s been over a century since the waves of immigrants began and things got all mixed up in the best possible way. there s layers and a simple question like, who is hawaiian? gets you all kinds of answers. the neighborhood of kalihi is a far cry from hawaii that most people know. and ethel s has been a go-to of a very specific kind for the last forty years. andrew: it s a blue-collar town, you know? they all come here. breakfast, lunch. yeah, every day. anthony: i m joined by two local chefs. mark noguchi, of mission, known by some as the gooch. he s second generation japanese. and andrew le, of the pig and the lady. he s first generation vietnamese-american. or would that be vietnamese-hawaiian? as you ll see it gets complicated. mark: i actually cooked on the east coast for three years and people would always be like, oh, you re from hawaii, you re hawaiian! and i was like, no, no, no, no. i m second generation japanese.
islands with very different identities. it s been over a century since the waves of immigrants began and things got all mixed up in the best possible way. there s layers and a simple question like who is hawaiian? gets you all kinds of answers. the neighborhood of kalihi is a far cry from hawaii that most people know. and ethel s has been a go-to of a very specific kind for the last forty years. andrew: it s a blue-collar town, you know? they all come here. breakfast, lunch. yeah, every day. anthony: i m joined by two local chefs. mark noguchi, of mission, known by some as the gooch. he s second generation japanese. and andrew le, of the pig and the lady. he s first generation vietnamese-american. or would that be vietnamese-hawaiian? as you ll see, it gets complicated. mark: i actually cooked on the east coast for three years and people would always be like, oh, you re from hawaii, you re hawaiian! and i was like, no, no, no, no.