islands with very different identities. it's been over a century since the waves of immigrants began and things got all mixed up in the best possible way. there's layers and a simple question like "who is hawaiian?" gets you all kinds of answers. the neighborhood of kalihi is a far cry from hawaii that most people know. and ethel's has been a go-to of a very specific kind for the last forty years. >> andrew: it's a blue-collar town, you know? they all come here. breakfast, lunch. yeah, every day. >> anthony: i'm joined by two local chefs. mark noguchi, of mission, known by some as the gooch. he's second generation japanese. and andrew le, of the pig and the lady. he's first generation vietnamese-american. or would that be vietnamese-hawaiian? as you'll see, it gets complicated. >> mark: i actually cooked on the east coast for three years and people would always be like, "oh, you're from hawaii, you're hawaiian!" and i was like, "no, no, no, no.