LOS ANGELES In more than 20 years at his family s restaurant, Joel Gonzalez had never seen anything like it. Around 6 p.m. on March 25, 2021, he looked up to find a line stretching out the door of Mariscos Corona, the Van Nuys restaurant he runs with his sister. For the next two hours, the siblings did their best to manage the surge of customers eagerly requesting the restaurant s signature dishes: aguachile-stuffed avocados and surf-and-turf burritos.
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