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Dine Out Maine: A once and future critic What was, what is, what will be. Critic Andrew Ross ponders how to return to restaurant criticism after the pandemic convulsion. By Andrew Ross Share The Korean BBQ Pork Nachos at Foulmouthed Brewing. Do these indicate critic Andrew Ross not-so-secret love of pork? Shawn Patrick Ouellette/Staff Photographer Editor’s Note: This is the second of a two-part retrospective looking back on the previous few decades of Maine dining. The Past (2016-20) I can pinpoint the moment when I realized I was no longer “the new guy.” About a year into my time as the restaurant critic, a reader e-mailed me a terse message that seemed to incorporate both a Seinfeldian observation and an indirect rebuke: “You sure like to talk about pork, don’t you?”

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