The World Surf League called a lay day for the Pipeline Pro as the wave fired. Fans were livid. But it was challenging and unruly. These 12 images are evidence.
Due to misinformation that lures beginners into difficult waves, I think surfing needs a grading system, like the one used by its sister sport of rock climbing.
On riding switch, finding his way to Pipeline, the recipe for a perfect trip, Waimea’s mechanics, clean living, the virtue of humility, and enlisting in the Army.
On the wave that made her, fighting for female representation, the Irons brothers, being invited to the Eddie, the dichotomy between freedom and conservatism, and the surf industry’s failures.