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Friday 28 May 2021
When Chinese food started to become mainstream in the UK in the middle of the twentieth century, it was a minor revolution, introducing incredibly new and interesting flavours and styles of cooking into the slightly drab world of post-war British cooking. Something like that revolution has been happening again in the last couple of decades, as a new generation of Chinese chefs has taken their place in the nation s restaurants, moving us away from the uniformity of Anglicised Cantonese cuisine and into a new world of regional styles and rich authenticity. Restaurants like Barshu, Xi’an Impression, Xu and A. Wong have made the possibilities of Chinese cooking come alive – a far cry from the Cantonese takeaways we grew up with, however comforting and familiar they may be. But what if those classics could be revisited, enlivened, and made exciting again? That s exactly what s happened at Red Duck in south London.
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Mr Ji
Soho grab-and-go Taiwanese chicken restaurant Mr Ji is to reopen this month as a full-service restaurant offering an expanded menu created with TĀ TĀ Eatery’s Ana Gonçalves and Zijun Meng. The food offer is billed as more refined, but will still be centred around the Taiwanese-inspired fried chicken for which Mr Ji is known. Dishes include The O’Ji - a twist on Mr Ji’s signature deep-fried chicken breast with chilli sprinkles; and the Lil’ Chick, a roasted whole poussin with spicy XO sauce and peanut. Gonçalves and Meng are also be looking to replicate the success of their original katsu sando with The Ji Sando, a pineapple bap filled with deep-fried chicken thigh and cucumber salad. Smaller plates include daikon cake (steamed daikon and shiitake mushrooms with garlic soy paste); prawn ‘in’ toast (toasted brioche ‘box’ filled with velvety prawn sauce and prawns); and T Egg (tea-marinated soft-boiled egg with smokey mayo and katsuobushi).
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