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A sea eagle soared overhead as we ascended the last 164ft of a steady, three-hour climb. The peak of Maudekollen, the mountain we’d eyed earlier that morning, had remained shrouded in a slow-moving mist, trapping a strange warmth beneath its blanket for most of the day. But in that last, crucial section, the fog dissipated and the full majesty of the deep blue fjords all around us was revealed. The sea eagle arrived to take advantage of the sudden, technicolour panorama – and completed the scene

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