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My first taste of ikan chuan chuan, a fish dish at newly opened contemporary Straits restaurant Pangium in Singapore, brings about a sudden jolt of nostalgia. The flaky Glacier 51 toothfish, served with a sauce of Bentong ginger and taucheo – salted, fermented soy beans – reminds me of a much humbler version of the fried pomfret that my grandmother. ....

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