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6397 Fall 2021 Ready-to-Wear Collection


“We’ve photographed our space from every angle!” says Stella Ishii, laughing, as she introduces her fall 6397 collection, shot in the doorway of her showroom. The message is simple, but poignant: “Come on in, when you can.” That sense of welcoming is echoed on the brand’s new “Love is Louder” tees and its always-forgiving silhouettes.
Even with sample delays and the associated stresses, Ishii and her team pulled together a collection of reliable ready-to-wear. It spans nylon double-breasted puffer coats a singular idea even in this cozy-core season slouchy eco-cashmere turtlenecks, and double-knit fine merino sweatpants. The 6397 crew has always dealt in this comfortable homewear, except in their world, these clothes have long been suitable for both work and play. For nonbelievers, they’ve cut a tropical wool mélange shirt suit in a reserved gray (for the WFH office) and offer a velour jumpsuit in neon yellow and violet (for going out when you can). ....

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Neil Barrett Fall 2021 Menswear Collection


“People were complimenting me on my pieces but complained about the prices,” said Neil Barrett on a Zoom call from his headquarters in Milan. “My friends loved the collection but they couldn’t afford it. They kept saying, ‘Are you crazy? It’s too expensive!’” This is hardly just Neil Barrett’s problem: Prices at luxury fashion houses are more often than not outrageously high. But Barrett is obsessive about more than just getting every minute detail of his impeccable tailoring right. “I’ve always had the dream to make my label more inclusive and democratic,” he said. “I felt very strongly that I wanted to offer collections accessible to a larger audience. Finally, I succeeded.” ....

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Moncler 2 1952 Spring 2021 Ready-to-Wear Collection


Veronica Leoni started working on this collection just days after Moncler’s raucous last-February Genius launch and after-party: ah, the Rick Owens RV, the bratwurst, and the dance floor. That launch coincided with the first discovered case of COVID-19 in Italy and its immediate aftermath. She remembered, “It was the first time we realized how specific our way of working had been, and that the way we were working had to change.”
Reviewing this collection feels changed too: That night last February involved helter-skelter-ing through 10 or so collections in less than one hour fashion speed dating which was both fun and efficient but hardly conducive to connection. In contrast, speaking with Leoni on Zoom and looking slowly at these look book images there’s no particular rush, as due to some calendar vagary the collection has been on sale since January, so this review is more an exercise in completism is highly conducive to connection. Even when frustratingly shot in bla ....

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Mimi Prober Fall 2021 Ready-to-Wear Collection


Mimi Prober declined to comment on this season’s tempest in a teapot, Bode versus Stan, but like the designers behind both of those brands, she uses antique quilts and textiles in her work and has done so for some time. Her mission is “preservation and taking textile narratives to a new generation through clothing,” she said on a call. The reversible coat, made from a 19th-century
boutis, that opens and closes her fall look book, is one example of that idea taking form.
Prober designates pieces made in New York from antique textiles as “Atelier,” and a few of those are worked into the mainline collection, made largely in India using sustainable fabrics and dyes. Most pieces involve handwork in various forms, be that the weaving of the fabric, block printing, knitting, or embroidery. The designer is also a jeweler, and designed the silver button that closes a cardigan pieced together from upcycled Scottish wool sweaters. Because Prober’s aesthetic is vintage-in ....

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