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"We're Just Scratching the Surface"—Meet Five Digital Artists Reimagining the Fashion Show

Designers are inventing new ways of presenting their collections. Here, five digital artists explain how they realized virtual realities for the fall 2021 season. ....

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Neil Barrett Fall 2021 Menswear Collection

“People were complimenting me on my pieces but complained about the prices,” said Neil Barrett on a Zoom call from his headquarters in Milan. “My friends loved the collection but they couldn’t afford it. They kept saying, ‘Are you crazy? It’s too expensive!’” This is hardly just Neil Barrett’s problem: Prices at luxury fashion houses are more often than not outrageously high. But Barrett is obsessive about more than just getting every minute detail of his impeccable tailoring right. “I’ve always had the dream to make my label more inclusive and democratic,” he said. “I felt very strongly that I wanted to offer collections accessible to a larger audience. Finally, I succeeded.” ....

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A.P.C. Fall 2021 Menswear Collection

Signing on to BlueJeans, A.P.C.’s personalized video conference site, last Saturday, Jean Touitou was in his Paris kitchen, fresh from a recording session at the brand’s Left Bank headquarters. He and his kids and an A.P.C. staffer on drums had just recorded the James Brown hit “I Got You (I Feel Good)
” as a promo of sorts for a big collaboration launching tomorrow (watch this space for news on the collaboration and Instagram, most likely, for the performance). The attraction of A.P.C is the way it remains a family business nearly 35 years after its founding and amidst so many more corporatized competitors. ....

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Per Götesson Fall 2021 Menswear Collection

For his latest collection, Per GÃ¶tesson began by peeling back the layers of his now well-established staples. Not just in the literal sense, that you might notice in the palimpsests of jeans overlaid onto deadstock military trousers, or the tops made from sliced vintage band tees, but also in thinking about layered clothing as a physical manifestation of memory and the passing of time. âI was working in a very tactile way with the garments this season,â he said. âSo I wanted that narrative of the time it takes to produce handmade pieces to be present.â
With his look book shot in his typically lo-fi style on a wintry morning in Hampstead Heath, the pieces GÃ¶tesson was fusing by hand to create his signature hybridized garmentsâRoyal Air Force jacket linings deconstructed to form padded coats; playfully chopped-and-screwed bomber jacketsâhad a more outdoorsy, utilitarian feel than usual. (Given GÃ¶tessonâs nods to queer history in collec ....

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Roberto Cavalli Fall 2021 Menswear Collection

Fausto Puglisi once called his aesthetic a cross between Carolina Herrera and Axl Rose. It’s a description that lingers in the memory for being as vivid as it is unlikely. It was, however, completely apt. There’s pomp and polish to Puglisi’s sexy designs; he makes clothes for women Jennifer Lopez, Madonna, Beyoncé who travel with a camera crew and others who model themselves in their glossy image.
His appointment at Roberto Cavalli, announced last October, couldn’t be more fitting. Puglisi grew up on the kind of in-your-face Italian glamour practiced by Gianni Versace and Cavalli. The trick, of course, is calibrating that va-va-voom to 2021 tastes. We’re coming off a year in sweatpants, though it will help Puglisi’s cause that a new generation of agenda-setting designers are thinking along body-conscious, sexy lines too. ....

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