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These refreshing white wines to enjoy this spring are all Italian, not by design but because they all happened to star in recent tastings. Three of them are recent arrivals, too, and the fourth is a new version of an old favourite of mine. All four are 13 per cent or lower in alcohol, too. Italy has a bewildering array of native grapes, red and white, many specific to one region. A fair few whites begin with Grec, as in Greco, Grecanico, Grechetto, suggesting a Greek heritage. Italians have always seen wine as something to accompany and complement food rather than dominate it. In the past, Italian white wines tended to be light and fresh, a sort of vinous squeeze of lemon to bring life to simply cooked fish and shellfish. ....