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Allta review: 'The tables for two are too small and the service not as smooth as it should be – but there's no doubting Niall Davidson's talent'

I walk the loop around Grand Canal Dock with my dogs most days. We pass the Bord Gáis Energy Theatre and the shiny tech offices and apartment buildings along Hanover Quay before crossing the three lock bridges beside the graving dock where the rusting MV Naomh Eanna, which once ferried passengers to and from the Aran Islands, lists sadly. Then we head along the Dodder, beside the hoardings covered in graffiti art, and cross over Ringsend Bridge before turning for home past the Aviva Stadium. ....

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