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Tom Parker Bowles & Olly Smith: Eating out


‘Pristinely fresh’ crab comes wrapped in ribbons of mooli
There’s something reassuring about Cépages, a Notting Hill bistro with French wine coursing through its veins. It may be the unselfconsciously bare brick walls, scuffed wooden floor and sherry casks that serve as occasional tables. Or the soft, dusky light (a sort of electric gastro-gloaming), cheerily Gallic waiters and battalions of empty wine bottles, featuring the superstars of Burgundy and Bordeaux. Most of all, perhaps, the easy, unforced feeling of a true neighbourhood restaurant, in a part of London where such things are all too rare.
The menu (don’t be put off by the French ‘tapas’ chat) mixes the heartily bourgeois with an occasionally elegant flash of haute. So a half-dozen snails, blisteringly hot, drowning in garlic-sated butter. And a small Camembert, spiked with rosemary and dribbled with honey, baked until oozing, then attacked with thick hunks of sourdough toast. ....

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This $14 Italian red is a gem that invites a pairing with a pot roast or pasta


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This $14 Italian red is a gem that invites a pairing with a pot roast or pasta
Dave McIntyre, The Washington Post
Feb. 12, 2021
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From left: Zeni FeF Collection Corvina Veronese 2018, Babylonstoren Mourvedre Rosé 2020, Bovale Old Vines Bobal 2019, Longevity Vintner Select Pinot Grigio 2019, Herdade do Esporão Monte Velho 2019.The Washington Post
Some people enjoy expensive trophy wines. For me, the real gems are value-packed, reasonably priced wines from unheralded regions or from obscure grape varieties. This week, we have a scintillating red from the corvina grape, grown in northern Italy near Verona, as well as a rustic red from the bobal grape, redolent of cherries and wild herbs. We also have a California pinot grigio with a salmon hue from skin contact that essentially looks and tastes like a rosé, plus a bracing rosé from South Africa and an affordable, tasty white from Portugal. ....

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