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The Epic of Gilgamesh, a poem supposedly dating from some time between 2100 BC and 12OO BC – the ancients weren't too hot on dates, but suffice it to say that it was a very long time ago – contains one of the first indomitable heroes in world literature, in the form of the eponymous Gilgamesh, who combines strength, perseverance and endurance in combating his many and varied foes. It was little wonder that, many years ago now (2006!), a suitably epic, 400-cover restaurant of the same name opened in Camden Market, where it survived until 2018. Those in the know mourned it, for all of its excess; it served some of the best pan-Asian food in London, and offered an operatic experience to compare to few others. So, when I heard that it had reopened on St Martin's Lane, it was time to saddle up and recruit the only man I know who can vie with me for heroism, strength and endurance when it comes to lunches; Larry. "Well, this is all very decent, old boy", quoth the her ....