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The Italian restaurant, which opened 35 years ago, counts Jamie Oliver and Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall among its alumni. We speak to three of its chefs who have taken its ethos with them into their own places ....
Shuko Oda heads to Brixton for West African fish and pickles, while Mary-Ellen McTague eats local veg in Stockport – top chefs tell us about their new discoveries ....