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The neighborhood of kalihi is a far cry from the hawaii that most people know. and ethel s has been a go-to of a very specific kind for the last 40 years. it s a blue-collar town, you know? they all come here. breakfast, lunch, yeah, every day. i m joined by two local chefs, mark noguchi, of mission, known by some as the gooch. he s second-generation japanese. and andrew le, of the pig and the lady. he s first-generation vietnamese-american, or would that be vietnamese-hawaiian? as you ll see, it gets complicated. i actually cooked on the east coast for three years and people would always be like, oh, you re from hawaii, you re hawaiian! and i was like, no, no, no, no. i m second-generation japanese. no, no but you re from hawaii that makes you hawaiian. and it was like, no. and then what i realize is like here in hawaii, we identify ourselves ethnically versus geographically. like, there s no way that he and i would call ourselves hawaiian. we d get our [bleep] kicked ....
A James Beard Award nominee is popping up with Mexican-flavored Sloppy Papis and Chicken Tsukune Katsu sandwiches Tuesday in Mō‘ili‘ili. James Beard Award nominee Ricky Goings will have Mexican-flavored Sloppy Papis and Chicken Tsukune Katsu sandwiches in Mō‘ili‘ili. ....