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The winner of L.A. Times' 2021 Gold Award is Guelaguetza


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Guelaguetza, awash in orange paint, appears on Koreatown’s Olympic Boulevard like a burst of sunlight. Behind the restaurant, colorful umbrellas shade picnic tables set amid lush plants, which disguise the fact the space was a parking lot before the pandemic. Friends and families, happy to be together, snack on black bean-smeared tlayudas and sip chile-rimmed micheladas and horchata topped with bits of cantaloupe, walnuts and a splash of hot-pink syrup made from cactus fruit. Cumbia rhythms welcome new arrivals. It feels like walking into the vacation you’ve been yearning to take after all these months of staying home. ....

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