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A soft summer’s day and I’m queuing in the drizzle outside the cheerful-looking Nóinín by the river in the heart of Kilkenny city waiting for it to open. I love its red and pale-blue livery. I’ve heard so many good things about this no-bookings little restaurant over the past few months that, when I finally get to visit, I have an expectation that I’ll be dealing with Assassination Custard levels of demand and that, unless I’m in position well before it opens, I could find myself waiting outside in the rain for hours. Worse still, I may never make it across the threshold. As it happens, I’m the only person there when Maeve Moclair pulls up the blinds just before noon. I summon my lunch companion from the shelter of the car and am grateful for the warning that the local parking attendant, who we’ve seen scuttling past, is dedicated to their work. ....