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Standing up against the window on the 38th floor of Kabukicho Tower in Shinjuku, I can hardly take in the scene thousands of buildings spread right across the biggest city in the world, home to more than 38 million people. Tokyo goes for miles in every direction; as far as every horizon. Far below, there’s a train snaking into Shinjuku station. From here, it looks like a miniature in a train set.

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