Big in Japan: My post-pandemic trip to Tokyo and Kyoto

Standing up against the window on the 38th floor of Kabukicho Tower in Shinjuku, I can hardly take in the scene — thousands of buildings spread right across the biggest city in the world, home to more than 38 million people. Tokyo goes for miles in every direction; as far as every horizon. Far below, there’s a train snaking into Shinjuku station. From here, it looks like a miniature in a train set.

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