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Karl Templer played accentuated contour against accentuated texture for this 60th-anniversary (the clue’s in the name) Ports 1961 collection. The contours lived within a consistent silhouette and were delineated by decoratively exaggerated details, including wide turtlenecks, generous collars on overcoats and cropped bikers, and amplified storm flaps on outerwear. There were further lines of layer and fold on sarong skirts in leather or thick knit and fabric that sometimes symmetrically echoed gathering in the garments above. Much of the texture came courtesy of a technically impressive array of knitwear that saw thick tubes of leather braided against wool and abstract reefs of differently toned tufting fixed on ribbed beds. Faux-fur details on those accentuated collars represented further tactile texture; meanwhile the texture in a tight series of pieces in a naive woodcut doodle jacquard were visual, as were the blurred outlines on a “distorted Bettie Page” graphic. ....
Like everyone else on planet fashion, Petar Petrov has been thinking about designing for the psychological paradoxes that are besetting women living in uncertain times: “Everybody wants to dress up, but nobody wants to show off at the moment. You want to be a bit comfortable, but you still want to look good,” he said, zooming from his apartment in Vienna. “It’s not the easiest thing to arrive at, because it’s much easier to be loud and to be overdressed. So I think it’s good if you can create something cool, with comfort and elegance. That’s my mission this season.” ....