Live Breaking News & Updates on Fall 2021 Ready To Wear|Page 13
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In November, Mark Fast opened his first standalone store in Beijing, the first of many he’s planning to launch over the next 12 months as he expands his retail footprint in East Asia with the help of a new business partner in the region. At a time of rapid growth for the Canadian-born designer’s 12-year-old brand, there’s only one downside: He hasn’t yet been able to visit the store due to the ongoing travel restrictions. “It seems very surreal to see it all growing when I’m not there, and I really miss going to China, but it’s all very exciting,” Fast says. ....
After months of retail tumbleweeds, Christmas came early for Michael Halpern. “Just before December, when the new collection went into stores, it picked up and sold out. I don’t know who’s wearing it or where they’re going, but it shows a little bit of light at the end of the tunnel,” the designer said on a video call from his Vauxhall studio. The hope it gave him fueled a fall collection uplifted by feelings of emergence: “what people are going to wear when they come out of lockdown.” Last year, Halpern devoted himself and his brand to pandemic relief efforts. He spent the summer producing PPE in a makeshift factory, and dedicated September’s collection to the front line, dressing its heroines in demi-couture for a digital docu-show that made more than a few viewers cry. Those clothes were high-octane socialist realist escapism if that isn’t a total oxymoron made not to wear, but to inspire. Now, Halpern said, the time has come for realizing those dreams. ....
Carolina Herrera the label is turning 40 this year. It was 1981 when the very chic Venezuelan émigré and New York society figure put her first collection of 20 or so looks on the runway at the Metropolitan Club. On the occasion of that show, Mrs. Herrera wore a gingham check tie-neck blouse. Wes Gordon, who took over for the house founder in 2018, said he made a new tie-neck blouse this season in honor of the anniversary. Paradoxically, this outing is Gordon’s most Herrera-like so far and the most his own. That comes down to both his comfort level with her exuberant, glamorous codes and a confidence derived from knowing what works for a new generation of clients. ....
Molly Goddard’s showstopping Lina dress plays a starring role in the designer’s fall 2021 collection film. Here, Vogue takes an exclusive behind-the-scenes look at the making of a Goddard gown. ....