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From an uncomfortably cramped south Austin food trailer, Gerardo “Jerry” Guerrero prepares hearty yet tender portions of meat drowned in brisket broth. Alongside five of his family members including his mother-in-law and his own mother the owner of La Tunita 512 crafts a glistening crimson jewel of a taco that tastes as good as it looks. These crunchy vessels of chopped, guajillo chile-stained Texas beef are known as quesabirria de res tacos, or red tacos. Guerrero’s tacos are also served Costra-style, a novel Mexico City preparation method that upgrades a plain tortilla with a crisp, structurally sound round of griddled Monterey Jack. As the shredded cheese melts on the truck’s plancha, the taquero fishes out brisket chunks daubed in chile from a bubbling stockpot, vigorously chopping the protein. Folded together with diced onions and cilantro, this taco’s crunchy-on-the-outside-gooey-on-the-inside shell boasts a roastiness akin to a Cheez-It cracker, one that� ....
Gerardo Jerry Guerrero, owner of La Tunita 512 (Photo by John Anderson) Social media is responsible for spreading countless food trends across the globe, for better or worse. An insatiable obsession with food porn is what helped launch Tijuana-born birria de res (and its cheese-laden cousin quesabirria) into a food sensation that is rippling across Austin, and the whole country. Birria, a dish from Jalisco, is traditionally made from goat or lamb and slow-roasted in a chile-based adobo for hours. The Tijuana version is said to have started in the 1950s when Don Guadalupe Zárate opened a street stand selling birria de chivo (baby goat) but switched to beef to achieve greater yield, using a cut similar to brisket. ....