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Albert Roux, genius of the kitchen who brought classic French cuisine to 1960s Britain – obituary

Albert Roux, genius of the kitchen who brought classic French cuisine to 1960s Britain – obituary Telegraph Obituaries © Rex In the Gavroche kitchen, 1989 - Rex Albert Roux, the chef, who has died aged 85, championed the cause of excellence in British restaurant cooking for half a century. With his brother Michel, Roux was responsible for elevating the national reputation for food, which, when the pair of them arrived in London in 1967 was nothing short of abysmal. The restaurant which would become synonymous with the name of Albert Roux was Le Gavroche. It was the first restaurant in Britain to gain a Michelin star, in 1974, and the first to win three, in 1982. The second restaurant to achieve this distinction, which it maintains to this day, was The Waterside Inn at Bray, founded by both brothers but later run solely by chef-proprietor Michel, who died in 2020.

Master chef transformed abysmal state of British cooking

Albert Roux obituary

Albert Roux obituary Tom Jaine © Provided by The Guardian Photograph: Rex/Shutterstock When Albert Roux opened the restaurant Le Gavroche in Lower Sloane Street, central London, in partnership with his younger brother, Michel, in 1967, the most innovative kitchens in Britain were often run by amateur cooks from other walks of life, who lacked that rigorous youthful apprenticeship and hard graft that was the presumed career path of any haute cuisine chef worth his (rarely her) salt. Beyond the grandest hotels, which still followed the precepts of Escoffier and other French masters, British restaurants paid homage to a cookery – still most often French – that was both more domestic and more relaxed. They were awful.

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