The torta ahogada at Birotes Tortas Ahogadas in San Antonio. Photograph by José R. Ralat Despite the struggles of a global pandemic and the subsequent recession, 2020 has been an extraordinary year for tacos and Mexican cuisine. The creativity and resilience with which taquerias and restaurants have responded to unprecedented adversity is uplifting. I’ve eaten better this year, in and out of dining rooms, than ever before. Before COVID-19 swept through Texas, I was able to squeeze in a quick trip into Matamoros, Brownsville’s sister city across the border. Had I been able to get back to Mexico at least one more time, I’m sure this list would’ve been longer. It is nevertheless a roundup of excellent eats (in no particular order) from across the state and just across the Rio Grande. I’d eagerly scarf all of these again, pronto.