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Ian Griffiths, 1980s. Photo: Dawn Cooper / Courtesy of the photographer Nostalgia’s not my thing, but making connections between past and present is. Right now the early 1980s have a strong pull on me (and not just because it gives me an excuse to look at images of Robert Smith). My current journey back to the ’80s began with a hint of New Romanticism wafting around the fall 2021 collections. It was most resonant in London, especially at Matty Bovan’s dramatic wind- and sea-swept collection for fall 2021. Then came the sad news that Nick Kamen had died, and I came across a photo of him walking in Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren’s history-making Pirates collection circa 1981, the same year as the Royal Wedding. Combined, these two events seemed like watching pages from fairy-tales come to life.

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