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It doesn’t necessarily get any easier to tell the height of a wave from the water. Photo: Brent Storm//Unsplash
Editor’s Note:
Welcome to Surf History 101, where we look at innovations in the world of surfing and beyond that changed the pursuit forever. In this edition, Sam George examines the history of measuring waves and how it’s shaped the pursuit.
What Is It
The decades-long custom of ignoring actual wave height, choosing instead to declaratively assert an estimate – the assigned figure having been reached in a completely arbitrary manner.
Who Developed It
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During the recent Margaret River Pro, held at that venerable Western Australian reef break, a classic example of estimating wave height was on display, the result, no doubt, very confusing to those surf fans new to the game. Early rounds were held in heavy, blustery, Indian Ocean swells that two-time world champion Gabriel Medina from Brazil called the biggest he’d ever
Macaulay fairytale continues in WSL event AAP 2 hrs ago Justin Chadwick © PR HANDOUT IMAGE PHOTO West Australian Bronte Macaulay has surfed her way into the semi-finals of the Margaret River Pro.
WA s Bronte Macaulay has continued her dream run at the Margaret River Pro by the barest of margins, while seven-time world champion Stephanie Gilmore came up trumps against Sally Fitzgibbons.
Macaulay and Frenchwoman Johanne Defay finished in a tie during their quarter-final showdown on Thursday, with both surfers posting a two-wave total of 11.83.
But it was Macaulay who walked away with the win because her highest-scoring wave (6.83) was better than Defay s (6.50).