my absolute favorite things has a limited season in japan, from september to april, and it s tastiest in winter. good. from here? masa: [ speaking japanese ] worker: [ speaking japanese ] masa: hokkaido. anthony: hokkaido. masa: yeah. anthony: good deal. another seasonal specialty currently at or near its best, kanogani, or snow crab. juicy and sweet and delicious. oh, man. that is good. masa: really good. sweet, huh? anthony: very. masa: we need a sake, huh? [ laughter ] anthony: yeah. masa: [ speaking japanese ] woman: [ speaking japanese ] anthony: good. masa: good. really good. thank you! worker: thank you! masa: thank you, very good. oh let s eat this one. [ speaking japanese ] worker: [ speaking japanese ] anthony: eel livers, grilled on a stick. unagi? masa: unagi, yeah. anthony: yeah. ooh, hot. [ laughter ] masa: yeah.
masa: how is it, good? anthony: that is good. mm. masa: this kind of charcoal slow cooking gives this kind of flavor, soft, juicy. how s the fish? konishi: [ speaking japanese ] [ laughter ] masa: you know what he said? before fish, i m gonna burn up. anthony: so him first. [ laughter ] masa: don t hurry. good food takes long time. anthony: so this big argument with the spanish. big argument. is umami a flavor or a sensation? masa: umami is essence. strong essence. anthony: so it s a mysterious force. masa: yeah, much bigger than the universe. anthony: bigger than flavor? masa: of course. this vegetable is called fukinoto. under the ground, covered in snow. cold. then, little by little, it opens up like that. this is first sign of spring. we appreciate that. anthony: how do you cook this?
anthony: how does he remember you? good guy, bad guy? pain in the ass? masa: [ speaking japanese ] sugyiyama: [ speaking japanese ] anthony: saxophone. sugyiyama: [ speaking japanese ] anthony: wait. is he any good at saxophone? [ laughter ] sugyiyama: good. good. very good. masa: i love jazz. i didn t know anything about it til i started working here. on a sunday, day off, taking classes a little bit, then playing here in the bathroom. anthony: here? masa: after work. i put the cloth in the bell, then play it like that. anthony: oh my god, they wanted to kill you. you re a very unusual man. masa: sushi is the best meal. we can enjoy every single small piece, different fish. we can see the chef, right
sesame. masa: beautiful. huh, tony? anthony: beautiful. when you first went to the u.s., how old were you? masa: 27. yaeko: 27? [ speaking japanese ] masa: yeah. yeah. anthony: did you have a job when you went? masa: no. for play golf. [ laughter ] anthony: no way. masa: yeah. the thing is, when i was a kid you know, art class? the teacher told me that american kids, they when they draw outside, just flat, straight line, house, tree, sun. huge, huge land. anthony: that s true. masa: japanese kids will do just mountains first. the house, right? the sun. i wanted to go u.s. to see huge land. that s my, you know, dream, you know? anthony: grilled rockfish made houraku style, steamed in smoking wormwood. masa: good fish, right? anthony: very good. bamboo shoots and wagyu beef prepared tableside with soy sauce and mirin.
the boys have laid out the makings of a pretty amazing feast iwana, or char, were caught today in a nearby mountain stream. enormous hokkaido scallops, pulled this morning from the sea of japan, sizzle and pucker in their shells over the fire in butter and lime juice and a touch of home-brewed soy sauce. wild japanese boar hangs above the coals, radiating its sweet aroma as it cooks. look at that. masa: yeah. anthony: so how long have you all known each other? how many years? masa: 30 years. right? we know each other. i love this kind of cooking, you know? it s the way i like. anthony: wow. masa: be careful, though. it s hot, though. anthony: oh, yeah. masa: mm! anthony: wow, it s sweet. masa: [ speaking japanese ] konishi: [ speaking japanese ] anthony: izura, freshly caught local quail, is rubbed with olive oil, sprinkled with salt, and lightly glazed with that homemade soy. masa: [ speaking japanese ] anthony: oh, wow.