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A wave to oneself: What price paradise?

May 17, 2021 | Surfing My scalp prickles, and I glance back at the jungle. My mind is suddenly thick with panic. I m convinced that Joro is about to explode out of the trees, his bow raised. Looking down at the clothes and water in my hands, I realize that I have to get rid of them before anyone sees them, and I stash them all in the jungle beside the outboard motor and petrol tanks and pull the palms back over it all. Then I return to the beach and sit on the sand, forcing myself to take deep breaths until I calm down a bit.

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