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The legend of panettone, Italy’s mythical Christmas cake Erica Firpo © Alberto Bernasconi for The Washington Post Giovanni Giberti, one of the three owners of the Pavè Milano bakery in Milan, makes panettone, on Dec. 17. There is nothing more natale (Italian for Christmas) than panettone, a holiday pastry that some (mistakenly) consider the Italian cousin of the fruitcake. But it isn’t that at all. In Italy, the panettone is tradition, identity and a delicacy. Beautifully packaged and given as gifts, the panettone is eagerly awaited by everyone. The lovely baked dome of sweet, soft and aromatized bread, originally from Milan, makes its way out of the ovens by November. A truly great, artisanal panettone gives you bragging rights all through the festivities. If you’re turning your nose up because you think it’s just a dry, boxed cake, you have never had a proper panettone.

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