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Auctions houses were once only interested in vintage watches, but in recent months consignees have been putting forward, not just modern watches, but the kind of unicorn pieces that either have never-ending waiting lists or have sold out entirely, looking for the best possible return on their rare pieces.
Geneva XIII was the sale that saw the practice go mainstream. A 2019 stainless steel, white-dialed Rolex Daytona sold for CHF 40,320 ($44,800 USD) which is more than three times its list price, while a nearly new 2020 Rolex GMT-Master II with Pepsi bezel more than doubled its list price, selling for CHF 22,680 ($25,200 USD).
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Louis Erard has dropped a second, limited edition entry into its artisan series, that focuses on offering traditionally high-end crafts at more accessible prices, with the Excellence Guilloché Main.
The guilloché Trompe l’oeil (or optical illusion) pattern on the dial is created at Swiss dial maker, Fehr, using a 100-year-old rose engine lathe, a machine controlled using hand and eye by an operator using with a series a cams, feeler, cranks and chisels, a craft which is a mixture of dexterity and experience.
Each of the 99 dials in the series are produced by the same artisan, helping them develop a vital rhythm when creating the unique pattern. As each one takes several hours to complete, engine-turned dials are traditionally used mainly at the higher end of the market by watchmakers such as Roger Smith.