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Soups have done a pivot, which isn’t easy to do when you’re a soup. They used to be a first course, after which you ate a main course. In gentlemen’s clubs and on ocean liners, the entrée was always a soup. In restaurants, there was always a delicate, refined, minted pea veloute or a creamy vichyssoise of potato and leeks, served in shot glasses or demitasse cups.
Illustration by Simon Letch.
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These were show-off soups, sipping soups, not stop-you-in-your-tracks soups. At his 1980s restaurant Fleurie in Toorak, chef Iain Hewitson would appear at your table clutching a half-bottle of champagne, which he would ceremoniously pour into your bowl of bright-green pea soup. Around that time, French chef Alain Chapel created the “cappuccino” mushroom soup – a creamy, velvety, luxurious thing frothed with a stick blender and sent out in a little porcelain beaker. And I’ll never forget the lilting sweetness of Liam Tomlin’s sweetcorn and basil veloute
Oyster saloons, pub Thai and white wine in the sun: 190 years of Sydney dining
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Herald had already been around a few decades when Athanassio Comino arrived from the Greek island of Kythera and opened one of Sydneyâs first fish and chip shops (or oyster saloons) in 1879.
âThat was before our time . just,â jokes Jill Dupleix, who along with fellow food writer husband Terry Durack has chronicled Sydneyâs dining scene for the best part of the past 30 years.
Terry Durack and Jill Dupleix at Beppiâs.