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Soups have done a pivot, which isn’t easy to do when you’re a soup. They used to be a first course, after which you ate a main course. In gentlemen’s clubs and on ocean liners, the entrée was always a soup. In restaurants, there was always a delicate, refined, minted pea veloute or a creamy vichyssoise of potato and leeks, served in shot glasses or demitasse cups.
Illustration by Simon Letch.
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These were show-off soups, sipping soups, not stop-you-in-your-tracks soups. At his 1980s restaurant Fleurie in Toorak, chef Iain Hewitson would appear at your table clutching a half-bottle of champagne, which he would ceremoniously pour into your bowl of bright-green pea soup. Around that time, French chef Alain Chapel created the “cappuccino” mushroom soup – a creamy, velvety, luxurious thing frothed with a stick blender and sent out in a little porcelain beaker. And I’ll never forget the lilting sweetness of Liam Tomlin’s sweetcorn and basil veloute
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