Let's face it, Las Vegas has a certain reputation. It puts off as many people as it attracts. But whatever your impression, however pejorative or snobbish, by the end of this article I'm hoping to have changed that. This is about how to do Vegas…without 'doing' Vegas. Admittedly, it didn't have the most auspicious start. And that began at Heathrow. A large group at the gate, bedecked in matching T-shirts, spurred by excitement and Prosecco, grew in boisterousness on the plane – until fatigue, fortunately, kicked in. It seems Vegas can wear you out before you've even started. Then it's about the lights. The flashing neon, the blinking, twinkling, dazzling from the hotels, the monstrous billboards, the fountains of the Bellagio, even flames dancing from the pirate ship of Treasure Island; it's a good time to arrive, at night, turning onto the Strip. It's enough of an introduction, like stepping into a movie montage, but it's not what