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The Drama of Dinner: How to Fine-Dine at Home Saveur 12/21/2020 Anna Hirschorn © Maura McEvoy Former Saveur editor Kelly Alexander buys pure rock salt, used for stabilizing the wobbly half shells of clams or oysters, in the snow-and-ice-removal section of the hardware store. The cost of a 40-pound bag? About $7. You can probably picture the sort of menu that features Clams Casino, Crab Louie, and Steak Diane. It’s oversize, a single card-stock placard, handed to you with great flourish by a waiter wearing a white dress shirt and black bow tie. The background music is piano, played at a gentle volume just out of sight. Elegantly old-school, this kind of fine-dining experience demands a pre-meal martini and might even make you long for a post-dessert smoke.

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