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"In the 1930s and 1940s, local surfers had trouble staying in the ocean for more than a half-hour, due to the frigid Alaskan Current turning their skin blue and rubbery," writes columnist Ross Eric Gibson. "They resorted to second-hand sweaters, sometimes treated with oil (a nerdy look for surfers), but they preferred 1890s wool bathing suits, which were 15¢ each at Goodwill. Then in 1959, Jack O'Neill opened his Cowell Beach surf shop where Dream Inn now stands."

Surfing museumUnited statesPleasure pointCowell beachLighthouse field state beachLighthouse fieldLighthouse pointHuntington beachMitchell coveSanta cruz surfing museumSanta monicaSan franciscoHugh bradnerPua kealohaRoss eric gibsonDave dye