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By Richard Collett 19 May 2021 Estevao Marques was barefoot, kitted out in a salt-stained football shirt with a well-worn mask and snorkel pushed high on his forehead. A sharp-looking knife was in one hand and speargun in the other. Marques encouraged me to snap a photo before he dashed off to the beach while there was a break in the monsoon clouds above. Marques local fishing ground has one of the highest concentrations of reef fish species ever recorded in a marine ecosystem, but this isn t one of the world s best-known diving destinations (although it should be). This is Atauro Island, a 25km stretch of volcanic rock located off the north coast of Timor-Leste, Southeast Asia s youngest and least visited nation.

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