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Image zoom Credit: Courtesy of D Artagnan
Where s the beef? If it s wagyu, the answer is pretty much everywhere. It used to be a remarkably rare and precious ingredient found only on the menus of the most exclusive restaurants, and while it s still precious, wagyu has become a lot more available. Today you ll find a wide variety of retailers offering it including high end meat purveyors, restaurants, and even warehouse club big box stores. According to Marc Zimmerman, owner of A-Five Meats and Gozu, the availability comes down to a combination of things. Restaurants have been pivoting to selling retail. Importers are still bringing in beef even with rolling restaurant closures, and we re getting stuck with it. Once restaurants are closed you ve got to figure out how to move it, he says. Another factor? The price is lower due to not meeting the tariff limits.
“Have you ever taken legs off a chicken? The back legs are a ball and socket, like on a chicken. Find where the thighs meet with the spine, and cut through the joint. With the forelegs, cut underneath the shoulder blade.”
Beard framing his face mask, Nick DeLauri stood outside Vermont Butcher Shop, his sustainable meatery in Londonderry, and explained how to break down the whole rabbit he had brought me curbside. “Now you have just the spine and loins. Take the sternum and neck off, chunk the rest out with a cleaver, and braise the whole thing.”
A little Dijon mustard, white wine, herbs, and cream, and the lapin à la moutarde