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The Middle East’s favourite bean stew is a simple yet celebrated affair, and known, variably, as ‘the rich man’s breakfast’, ‘the shopkeeper’s lunch’ and ‘the pauper’s supper’ – but what’s the definitive version?

United statesAr raqqahUnited kingdomAl qahirahJenny linfordTara wigleyClifforda wrightSami taminiNermine mansourMax falkowitzZahra hankirAnissa helouYohanis gebreyesuSuzanne zeidyMiddle eastCairo kitchen suzanne zeidy